Day 42 - Sunday, June 21
Start - Dighton, KS
End - Scott City, KS
Miles (on the route) - 24.0
Miles (total) - 27.75
Avg Spd - 11.2mph
Max Spd - 17mph
Total ride time - 2:26
I woke up feeling surprisingly well and wondering if I could accomplish a repeat of yesterday. It was going to be hot again and climb up into the 90s. The knees started out a bit stiff but without the pain that had been plagueing me through Missouri. I hoped the flatter territory would give them a break and it has seemed to help a bit so far.
I headed for Scott City and stopped to do some laundry, get lunch, and maybe take a dip in the city pool and cool off. Clean clothes are always nice, and I found a small mexican restaurant where I had some amazing fajitas while watching spanish language WWE wrestling. A fine afternoon. After lunch I debated whether I should get a move on or go for a swim and wait for it to cool, and while heading down the road I noticed some loaded touring bikes outside a taco joint. I stopped in to say hello, curious if it was anyone I had already met or if it may be some new people.
Inside I met Tim and Cindie Travis who at first appeared to be just another pair of transamers. But they soon revealed a major distinction, informing me they have been cycling all over the globe for seven years! That's right, seven years! I've heard of people doing this but I didn't figure I'd meet anyone like this. As you can imagine, upon learning of this I was flooded with more questions than I could possibly ask. Their story in brief is that they are from Arizona, Tim has wanted to do this for a long time and eventually Cindie joined in on the idea. They have lived frugally and had a substantial savings that would allow them to travel for a few years. He was a teacher and she was a geologist, but didn't feel they had to be confined to the traditional societal roles. So why not? They now support themselves through sales of the books they have written and website advertisements and such. So that said...
We discussed their lifestyle at length, the challenges and the unique experiences of travelling through countries such as China, Laos, Vietnam, Australia, and many others. They have obviously amassed an amazing wealth of knowledge and global perspective through these travels, and talking with them had me anxious to hear everything I could from them. One of the most astounding details of their story was the fact that they left within the first few months after September 11th, and didn't return to the states for any significant amount of time until the last six months. They are now touring the United States in what they have come to find is a completely different country. Tim and Cindie have been shocked by how polarized our society has become. It was strange to think about at first, but I can't imagine the changes I would notice if I had been absent from the US since September 11th. So much has happened. It was probably a blessing in some ways to be abroad for the last several years.
We talked for about an hour or two and decided we would all go to the pool and relax and get showers. They were tempting me to camp in the city park with them but I felt the pull to move on and do more than just 25 miles for the day. I couldn't decide, but I eventually reminded myself the point of the trip wasn't to put on miles. I wasn't out here just to get there, but to enjoy as much here as I could along the way. After reminding myself of that, I knew spending more time with these unique two was an opportunity I shouldn't pass up! Besides their amazing story, they were an enjoyable, amusing couple. They were all around good company. We made our way back to the park after the pool and relaxed in the sun and made camp. It wasn't long until who should join us but Anna. She did another good day and caught right up with me. It was a good group and we got some ice cream and talked into the evening. I enjoyed talking politics with Tim who was rather balanced on the political spectrum, despite what you might stereotypically expect from a 7 year traveller.
I'd be leaving Tim and Cindie the next day, but they would be continuing on their current trek from Alaska down to LA and then across to NY. I've posted their website for people to check out and keep up to date on their amazing journey. I was amused to find their website is called down the road, a saying I've been using since meetin people early in my ride. It hasn't been until lately that I've discovered this is a sort of universal saying amongst the touring riders. It seems fitting, see you down the road.

Day 41 - Saturday, June 20
Start - Larned, KS
End - Dighton, KS
Miles (on the route) - 96.5
Miles (total) - 101.25
Avg Spd - 17.0mph
Max Spd - 29.5mph
Total ride time - 5:58
Anna and I packed up in a rainy morning. We were both dragging our feet, neither anxious to start the day in the light but steady precipitation. Mornings like this are great times for the library, a time to be constructive without getting wet. So that's what we did, and delayed our start until around 12:30. It would be a later start but sometimes you just don't want to force anything. By this time I was ready.
Anna had headed out just prior to me, and I made my start with a light rain still falling from the sky. I caught most of my moisture from passing trucks. Once I finally got trucking I noticed the tailwind I had and the speeds I was able to maintain on the ride. I soon had a newfound motivation for riding and got excited at the possibility of doing big miles! The contrast to the previous day was exciting!
I was feeling good, averaging around 20mph through the early miles when, Bang! The unmistakeable sound that instantly took me back to Vesuvius. I immediately started to brake and wait for the inevitable loss of control, but after a few seconds I noticed everything was fine. I was very confused. Nothing was wrong. I soon gathered that it must have been the passing pickup truck. When I caught up to Anna she confirmed my suspicions, having been the victim of the same scare. I'm not sure what they did, but they left ringing in both of our ears. Anna was going for a sixty mile day, and I believed I may be able to do more, so I jumped out ahead and sought the big mileage I've been craving. Mile after mile rolled beneath me as the idea of my first century became a reasonable possibility.
The rain dried up, though the storm clouds continued to hover, as I passed through Rush Center, Alexander, and eventually Ness City with barely a stop. The air was also much cooler than it had been for days, maybe weeks. I felt such a momentum, especially compared to yesterday's struggles. All day the storms moved by, but rarely hitting me with a drop of rain. The travelling was flat, again with only the occasional tree. Fields stretched out with small oil well pumps making the only noise. It was cloudy and quiet, not the environment that I would imagine having me riding with such a thrill. At Ness City I stopped for dinner and got a cheeseburger and milkshake at the drive-in, and met a transam cyclist who was stuck due to a failed tire. A local lent him his car to drive 100 miles to a bike shop and get a new tire. That's generosity.
I was aiming for at least Dighton which would put me around 100 miles on the day. I thought I may be able to do even more, but the sun might not agree. I hurried on to cover the last 32 miles with the wind still mild but helping me at my tail. As I made the final stretch I could see for miles in every direction, and with that different weather systems moving through the region. To the south was a dark system moving in, and to the north were scattered cloud systems moving out. Directly in front of me was a clearing where the sun's rays peaked through exposing the sunset and the only sun I had seen that day. It seemed to be shining down on Dighton, lighting up my goal for the day. I paused to take a picture of the scene, and stood there for a few minutes appreciating the amazing view that was in every direction. Never before could I see so much from one point. There was a bigger picture you just don't get elsewhere.
A truck soon pulled up and warned me of a major storm moving directly towards Dighton and offered me a ride for the last 5 or 6 miles in to town. I explained I had to refuse and hastily made out for the city to find my shelter for the evening. Dighton was sizeable at over 1,200 people. Amongst the town's gast stations, stores, and houses was the massive complex pictured below. Presumably some sort of grain storage, it stood not far from the center of town like a monster. Amongst these dusty towns in Kansas stand these industrial giants that seem to crawl out of the ground like something from a sci-fi story. Maybe it was the storm clouds hovering over that brought a darker perspective to their existence.
While cycling under a light sprinkle to the public park where I would be camping, I crossed the 100 mile mark. Finally my first century! I felt proud while setting up in the pavilion where a birthday party had taken place earlier. My tent sat amongst a litter of broken balloons and cake frosting smears, and I crawled in to relax and talk to friends of my big day.

Day 40 - Friday, June 19
Start - Hutchinson, KS
End - Larned, KS
Miles (on the route) - 67.0
Miles (total) - 74.25
Avg Spd - 11.0
Max Spd - 31.0
Total ride time - 6:30
I woke up about as early as I do, 7:30, and was leaving by 8:30. I would have liked to ride more with the group but I can't afford to take a day off while trying to get to Pueblo to meet up with Lisa. Anna said she may leave today also but I didn't know for sure. I figure I may bump into the group down the road.
I made a stop to grab a quick breakfast at Burger King, and some locals chatted it up, asking questions. Hutchinson is officially off route so I asked for some directions for the best way to get to Nickerson and back on route. Two older gentlemen instantly started into a battle for the best directions. It's interesting how the morning crew tends to have a battle of egos to see who has the best directions or the best weather report. It makes it difficult to just get the info for which you are looking. Eventually I was guided to Nickerson Blvd and headed towards what would essentially be my "fueling" point for the day. After Nickerson there is nothing until you reach Larned 58 miles later. On the way there I passed by an exotic animal farm and relaxed for a moment, watching the ostriches in the field. These birds are amazing to see up close, so different. They stand like dinosaurs before your very eyes. And their feet are massively unique; strangely exactly what you expect, but strikingly large! This sounds funny, but they are as striking as the huge mits of an Amish man! Only later did I think to have taken a closeup shot of their feet.I stopped at Nickerson and loaded up on extra bottles of water and some snacks to last me the 58 mile stretch. I even found Turkey Hill Iced Tea! It must be a good sign. It was a staple of my diet during the college years, but I haven't had that stuff since the Lancaster days. I moved out with some cloud cover, and the temperature staying relatively mild. I was expecting another blazing hot day, but it wasn't showing itself yet. A breeze slowly increased into a wind blowing from the South, so it was shaping up to be a day of crosswinds. I guess that's better than a headwind!
Save for a turn in the first ten miles this was a stretch of completely straight road. Occasionally there was a tree line, maybe a house, but mostly it was just mile after mile of field and occasional ranching pasture. The sun slowly started to peak out and the temperature started to climb. And within an hour of leaving Nickerson the winds changed to a full on headwind. Frustration quickly set in as I cranked away against the puch of the wind, creeping along despite the miles of flattest land the laid out before me. Shortly this was compounded by getting another flat tire! This day was unravelling rapidly! I took it as an opportunity to take a short break and clear my head, so I found some shade and ate a snack. It helped a bit, but the wind did not let up and my frustrations made an immediate return.
To try to describe the thought process during approximately 40 miles of headwinds that kept me struggling under 9mph is frustrating in itself. Those miles were a test of focus and distraction; a constant cycle of consciously seeking peace and search for anything but concentration. One moment you are finding yourself filled with rage, almost unconsciously finding nothing but negativity in every thought. I played through conversations, arguments, fantasizing about the things I would say or do to a person who might make a sarcastic or negative comment. I'm not proud of it, and rather ashamed of some of it, but it's something that happens. I was amidst a real life myth of Sysyphus for a brief time, and it really does drive you half crazy. Repeatedly, I would catch myself in this negative focus, and almost shock myself when I stepped back and looked at my pattern of thoughts for the last several miles. I then found myself engaged in a self talk that returned me to proper perspective, reminding myself that everything is temporary. Every moment is a passing moment. In time I'll look back on this as accomplishment, rolling into Larned triumphant with my arms raised. I reminded myself of rewards, though small, such as a large bottle of Orange Juice or a phone conversation with a friend. Believe it or not these things motivate in such situations.
The scenery didn't change over the course of those 58 flat miles. The only real marker of progress was a highway intersection 20 miles east of Larned. After passing over that it wasn't long before the headwind miraculously lightened and shifted to a crosswind. I found myself finally finding a sense of ease and contentment as I, shamefully, turned to .38 special for some earphone motivation. I became overwhelmed with excitement as I saw in the distance the sign for the turn that would take me the last mile into Larned. Just a few last pedal strokes and then refreshment and relaxation!
Upon entering I checked in with the police, found the park where I would be camping, and was overjoyed to find the glory of another public pool! I was immediately greeted and told I could use the pool and shower for free! That may have been the most satisfying swim ever. Suddenly everything is right again. And already all the day's frustrations seem distant and almost laughable. I ended the evening with a mediocre chinese buffet and made my way back to the park to set up my tent. I was surprised to find Anna had found her way to Larned, with similar struggles, and had just set up her tent. It was good to have company again and we chatted between tents while the mosquitos swarmed outside.

Day 39 - Thursday, June 18
Start - Newton, KS
End - Hutchinson, KS
Miles (on the route) - 39.0
Miles (total) - 43.7
Avg Spd - 11.6mph
Max Spd - 20.5mph
Total ride time - 3:45
I awoke to the sound of lawnmowers early in the morning. I lazily got up, packed, and sat down at the picnic table to enjoy a hearty breakfast of leftover Pizza Hut. A young lady who brought her son to the playground decided to join me, saying she thought I needed company. We chatted for a bit, she asked questions about the trip, and strangely started to lay it on pretty thick. The flirtation was a bit strong. I'm not entirely sure what her idea was, but she tried to give me her phone number and it got pretty awkward. And then her son came running over to us yelling, "Daddy, Daddy!" Uhh.... I sat there in silence, frozen, not sure what to say. She quickly apologized and added that he calls everybody that. Hmm... I made my exit.
I used the library again and grabbed some water and made my way out of Newton where I ran into Anna. She was riding in the same direction and tagging up with a group of six others. Turns out Anna is from Denver, CO and has been riding solo at her young age of 17! She wanted to do the whole transam but is doing a significant stretch from Carbondale, IL to Pueblo, CO! Crazy amazing! I'm 28 and would have thought this trip was crazy just a year ago. I can't imagine the courage and confidence it would take to even consider such a thing at 17! Another point is the gender issue. I haven't seen a single solo female rider on this trip. Not to be sexist, I don't doubt the ability, but there is a safety concern that most people think of when they hear of a woman riding this trip solo. It's tough not to focus on Anna's demographic as a transamer, but she should be given due credit as an individual. She's good company and seems to be quite the biker.
Things are flat now, having left the Flint Hills of Kansas. Anna and I rode together to Hesston where I met a few of the others she just started travelling with. Jake and Tyler were there who are from Michigan. They rode into Chicago and then down to Missouri to join the transam trail, and that's where they met the other four riders. They were stopping for lunch, and I was still full of pizza, so I decided to ride on. They were all meeting up in Hutchinson, KS to stay at a church hostel and I figured I would consider it an option, though it would make for a shorter day.
Again, high 90s. I headed west towards Buhler, and within a few miles of leaving the group I had another flat. This is getting ridiculous! I pulled on the side of a small electrical service shed, the only shade around, and changed it out. Again I found a puncture. At least I know what is happening! The sad part is that means this Maxxis Overdrive kevlar belted tire is not stopping much. The heat really started to wear me down. I was feeling tired and thirsty when I got into Buhler. I'm not eating as much either in this intense heat, and I'm sure that is taking a toll. On my way in a gentleman, James, stopped me and wanted to talk about the trip. He had plenty of stories to share as he had toured by bicycle for most of his life. He's been through most of the states and parts of Canada. He offered advice and gave me a detour to Hutchinson due to the flooding of the main road. After relaxing at a grocery store in Buhler, I saw Anna, Jake, and Tyler again and made plans to meet up at the hostel in Hutchinson.Hutchinson was a large city with a population of over 40,000. I made my way directly to the bike shop to check on getting a new tire. I grabbed a CO2 inflation tool, to make sure I get maximum pressure, but they didn't have any top notch tires worth purchasing to replace the current. The church hostel was nearby but I found out late the key is supposed to be picked up at the bike shop. Funny they didn't mention that while we discussed the hostel at the shop. I asked a neighbor and she was eventually able to track down someone who could let me in. More helpful folks. For the night we were given a huge recreation room, a kitchen, shower, and mattresses. Awesome! The wonder of simple pleasures!
Anna was the first to arrive and we went to the library. Shortly after we returned to the church and were joined by Jake, Tyler, Conor, and then Mark. We got cleaned up and headed to the Wendy's down the street to gorge on the fast food goodness! It was such a missed pleasure to sit down with a great group of people and laugh and share stories. I could tell right away this group was fun. Eventually John and Brittany joined us at the church and we chatted late into the night. Brittany, Conor, John, and Mark are all from Blacksburg, VA, some of them attending Virginia Tech. They all work together at a vegetarian restaurant there called Gillies. This was the second time on the transam for Mark, and he had a great sign on the back of his trailer. They were all planning on taking the next day off but I was trying to get to Pueblo in time to meet up with Lisa from Chicago before she heads back. Looks like I'll have to leave this group, but I'm sure I'll see them down the road. Below is a group shot of us, and clockwise from the bottom left is Conor, Mark, me, Jake, Tyler, Anna, Brittany, and John.

Day 38 - Wednesday, June 17
Start - Eureka, KS
End - Newton, KS
Miles (on the route) - 75.0
Miles (total) - 75.41
Avg Spd - 13.5mph
Max Spd - 31mph
Total ride time - 5:35
The day brought another Kansas southern wind. With the majority of roads having me travel directly west, it's almost always blasting me on the left side. The terrain at the start of the day still has mild inclines and declines because I'm still in the territory of Kansas known as the Flint Hills. It's been frustrating, despite being some of the easiest terrain so far, because in my head I'm expecting this to be flat. I've heard so many stories of how you can see the next town from 10 miles away and you can spend an hour biking towards the tree out on the horizon and never get there. Everybody has tales of the area, especially tales of riders going crazy from how flat and boring the rides are in Kansas. I'm waiting to see all this, but it's just not here yet. I try to not get anxious; It doesn't make sense to get frustrated by mild inclines.
I made a brief stop in the small town of Rosalia to get water and grab a snack. The lady in the cafe had me fill out her register as many places do along the route. Some registers go back to the early 80s, and contain lists of bikers, their routes, hometowns, and often comments. I found a friend's entry, John, from 5 years ago. He looked to be doing a better pace so far.
From Rosalia I had a 17 mile shot straight north to Cassoday, which I was able to average over 20 mph with the full help of a tail wind. Cassoday was my lunch stop before jumping into a 38 mile stretch to Newton with no services along the way. I stopped at a convenience store/diner by I35 and was impressed by the look of the place. It had a cowboy mystique, all dusty old wood, dirty pickup trucks, and a sign outside that reminded you to wipe your boots. Inside were several long wooden picnic tables with various cowboy hatted men taking advantage of the home cookin' buffet. I didn't blend in and got a few looks. Finally, this is Kansas. This is becoming the southwest I expected.
I loaded up on some extra bottles of water, and with a moderately full stomach, set out on the hot 38 mile stretch to Newton. It was another day of high 90s, and was evidenced by the pickup I passed that had overheated. I offered help but was limited on what I could do. Not much traffic out there and nowhere to really look for help. I was exhausted and desperate for fluids when I finally rolled into Newton. The first sign of a gas station filled me with excitement, and newfound energy sprinted me in for a huge bottle of OJ. Newton was aesthetically beautiful, with new sidewalks, a clean main street, and a modern park. I used the library in the evening, which was crowded with some of the most annoying patrons I've come across so far. The public libraries have been immensely helpful, but you never know who's going to be sitting next to you. Kids were running rampant, yelling and playing video games. But apparently I looked shady because the guy across from at the computers asked me point blank, "Did you just jump off that train out there?" I explained to him I've been riding cross country, to which he replied, "I just thought you looked a little rough, and your wind blown hair." Thanks. I again dined at the local Pizza Hut and brought back leftovers to the park. In town was a skate park where some kids were hanging out late night. It's good to see towns offering options like that despite probable opposition. It seems that some of these towns need something for the kids to do. I'm feeling back in the swing of things and am looking forward to another day of productivity and good mileage.

Day 37 - Tuesday, June 16

Start - Chanute, KS

End - Eureka, KS

Miles (on the route) - 62.0

Miles (total) - 62.25

Avg Spd - 13.5mph

Max Spd - 30.5mph

Total Ride time - 4:35

Chanute was sunny and clear in the morning, and no sign of damage despite the crazy storm. I stopped for an early lunch on the way out at Taco John's, the southwestern Taco Bell competitor. It brought a strange amusement to me because of the cross-country road trip Mary and I did six years ago. We made a habit of stopping at every taco place we could find and I distinctly remember eating at one of these during the trip. I think I even have a pile of pictures somewhere of Mary giving celebratory poses in front of various taco chains. I hoped this was a sign of moving into southwestern food territory. I'm definitely looking forward to the green chili smothering of Colorado!

I got my first real dose of the Kansas winds this day; a strong cross wind from the South. It's a different experience. You find yourself leaning left all the time, and getting mild lateral swerving from the differentiating gusts and lulls. At one point I was briefly turned south and got the full brunt of a headwind which proved extremely frustrating. It's definitely a mental challenge, fighting the wind and keeping mental peace.

I eventually got to Eureka in time for dinner, but first went to check out the camping situation. I was directed to the city park and found out they had a pool and showers I could use. Awesome! It was another blazing hot day so a dip in the pool sounded like the best thing ever! I went swimming in the only thing I had, the biking shorts. One little girl found this offensive and yelled to her mom, "Ewwww! That boy is in his boxers!" Thank God I wasn't arrested! I spent about two hours just swimming and relaxing by the pool. So relaxing! I found a dairy bar in town and got an amazing chocolate shake and double cheeseburger and called it a night at the city park. Another great day.

Day 36 - Monday, June 15

Start - Pittsburg, KS

End - Chanute, KS

Miles (on the route) - 60.0

Miles (total) - 65.23

Avg Spd - 14.5mph

Max Spd - 26.0mph

Total ride time - 4:29

I rode with Kaleb and Andy over to a local bike shop in the morning. They were rotating tires and I wanted to have the wheel checked out on account of the metal under the tape and the flats. While they moved their wheels around I took the time to hit the post office and dump some weight. The weight hasn't been a problem for my riding, but the busted spoke and flats worried me that the weight may be too much for the back wheel. I dumped my camp stove and related equipment, and also two books and some random items. In all, I mailed off about 9 pounds. After returning to the bike shop, the mechanic inspected the wheel and put new tape on, and then trued the wheel and got rid of some dish that was there. He didn't have a definite explanation for the flats but figured it must have just been punctures. I'm getting curious about this Maxis Overdrive tire I'm riding.

On the way out an older gentleman warned me of incoming severe storms with tornado potential. It never quits. I went over to the library and checked the weather which showed nothing on the radar and said there was storm potential for counties east of Pittsburg. I've learned that the morning gossip is seldom correct and I went ahead and left for Chanute.

This map for Kansas stopped having an elevation graph because there are no major hills or climbs. The day still had long stretches of inclines and declines, and the occasional small hill. Roads are now long and straight, and only seem to connect at right angles that correspond with compass directions. It makes it very simple to know exactly what direction you are always headed.

The day was again blazing into the high 90s and it was at a brief water stop in Walnut that I saw the tv weather report that called for strong storms late that night. As I rolled into Chanute I could see the sky darkening along the horizon as storms prepared to move in. A lady driving in recommended I stop at the Chanute fire house to see about camping there on account of the storms. On the way there I passed an amusing sign at a muffler shop and took advantage of the photo opportunity.

I was greeted at the fire house and told I could bring in my stuff, shower, and even do laundry. And a fire pole! Awesome! I weighed myself and I was down to 204; 15lbs lost so far. After grabbing some dinner at a nearby sandwich shop, I hung out with a few of the firefighters and we swapped stories. It wasn't long until they got a call as the storm moved in, and I soon found myself relieved to be indoors. Strong whipping winds and a huge downpour crashed down that was strong enough to pulverize my tent had I camped out. As the crew returned the power went out in the whole city, and the firefighters scrambled to get the backup generator going. They soon found the ventilation system hadn't been connected to the generator and they repeatedly had to go outside in the storm to try to get it started. With carbon monoxide meters in hand, they tested each part of the station, opening some windows and doors, and soon decided they may have to shut down the generator due to the unsafe levels. I was awake with the chaos until after 1 in the morning when the storm finally moved on and the station was safely ventilated.

Day 35 - Sunday, June 14

Start - Ash Grove, MO

End - Pittsburg, KS

Miles (on the route) - 67.5

Miles (total) - 74.85

Avg Spd - 13.4mph

Max Spd - 35.0mph

Total Ride Time - 5:35
The tire was mostly flat in the morning, as I figured it would be, so I changed out the tube. I found a small piece of metal stuck in the tire that was definitely responsible for the flat. It gives me piece of mind to be sure of the cause of any of these problems. It's the mysteries that haunt me and keep my mind occupied while riding. And I'm finally getting better with changing the tire and perfecting the tips the mechanics have shown me along the way. There was a public pool in the park and they leave the bathrooms and showers open so I was able to get cleaned up for the day. On my way out of Ash Grove I came across and eastbound rider, Adam who was averaging about 100 miles a day! He started days after me from Astoria and was on track to finish in less than 45 days! A bit different from my trip.
The day's ride saw the terrain slowly shift from repeated hills to stretching inclines and declines, and short hills. There was less hill climbing, but the temperatures climbed into the mid 90s and I was feeling the sting through the long stretches in the afternoon. Not much in the way of towns on today's ride. On my way into Golden City I again noticed a significant loss of pressure, started getting a bit of bounce in the ride. I was able to ride it into town and I got a snack at the local grocery store before inspecting the tire. It was going flat so I changed it again, not finding anything stuck in the tire but noticing what looked like a new puncture on the tire. I couldn't be sure, but I suspected I picked up something on the road again. I checked the tape on the rim and found a small metal shaving underneath. Not good. But it didn't seem consistent with the holes I was finding on the spent tubes. Regardless my second flat in 24 hours had me a bit suspicious. It seems a bit odd for riding a kevlar belted tire. This was going to nag me so I planned on getting things checked out in the morning at one of the bike shops in Pittsburg.I finally crossed into Kansas this evening and made it into Pittsburg, a sizeable town of over 19000 people. A cop directed me to the city park to camp for the night and told me of some other cyclists there already. There I met Kaleb and Andy who were from the University of Tennessee in Knoxville and going east on the transam. They were also averaging big miles and were right behind Adam whom I met earlier. We talked for a bit that evening and they shared there biking knowledge with me and what to expect from the territory ahead. Many people intuitively expect winds from the west in Kansas, but as I've heard before, it's almost always from the South and occasionally from the southeast. They had slight headwinds more than tailwinds and thought I should be in better shape going west. I also got an amusing story about a guy travelling west just a few days ahead of me who has gained a bit of transam fame. Apparently he starts riding around 6am each day and only does about 40 miles. He relaxes through the afternoon in his tent watching movies on his laptop. They call him "Netflix Guy" because he has Netflix send movies to towns ahead of him every couple days. They had been told of him by several westbound riders, and when they finally came across him they eventually realized it and proclaimed, "Oh my God, you're Netflix guy!" This was much to his surprise as he didn't realize how unique he was in his style of touring or that many others knew of him. I hope I stumble upon this guy!A storm moved in and dropped some rain while we were safely camped under the park pavilion. The humidity and heat stayed so high it mad for an extremely uncomfortable night's sleep, where you just laid there with a film of moisture over your whole body. You just hope for a slight breeze that will provide some cooling relief just for a moment.

Day 34 - Saturday, June 13

Start - Marshfield, MO

End - Ash Grove, MO

Miles (on the route) - 48.0

Miles (total) - 52.65

Avg Spd - 11.9mph

Max Spd - 39.0mph

Total ride time - 4:26

The day started with a sore ass. Painful! It's been slowly getting worse and this morning I couldn't even sit on the seat correctly. I had to sit pretty far front, and that's not going to work very long. I spare everybody and not go into this too much, but it's a bad thing. Saddle sores are no good. And I'm especially worried after the recent story of the fellow transamer's infected saddle sore. No Bueno!

I grabbed some breakfast and set out with the hopes of big mileage and getting into Kansas. The people in Missouri have been nice, but I've been struggling here and I'm anxious to make it to the next state and get to the flat territory of Kansas. I can't really put a finger on exactly what it is that I'm not enjoying about Missouri, but I've been in a funk here. And maybe it's not Missouri's fault at all. Maybe it's just that spot in the trip where I hit a mental wall, had to happen sooner or later. Maybe it's just the weather. The traffic has not been kind to me here, and I haven't enjoyed the terrain. At least not the Ozarks. I don't mean to be offensive, but I just don't think Missouri is the place for me. Could just be bad timing and context though.

While leaving Marshfield, I heard the unmistakable "PONG!" I haven't heard it before but I was immediately confident in what it was: broken spoke on the back wheel. I was crossing over interstate 44 when it happened so I pulled into a park and ride lot and looked into what I could do. I don't have a chain whip to remove the gear set, but it was on the other side and I thought maybe I could find a way to get the spoke into place. I spent time trying to do some creative thinking and improvising with the tools I had, but it wasn't going to happen. The immediate reaction is the feeling of doom and discouragement, but I've been in these situations a few times and I've come to appreciate the process of the mechanical hiccup; the bump in the road. These things happen. There is always a solution, and it will be found. Sometimes it takes time. Sometimes it takes money. But every moment is a passing moment. And I simply remind myself of that when the moment is not so great. It's never long until you are looking back and appreciating something about that experience.

After about an hour of playing with tools and getting nowhere, I resigned to finding a way to a bike shop. I was able to txt google and find a bike shop about 30 miles south on 44 in Springfield. Now to find a way there. As soon as I started to roll the bike out of the lot a car pulled in with a few bikes on the back. The gentleman asked me if I needed some help and I explained my situation. Despite having an appointment to get to, he offered to give me a lift to Springfield. Again, saved by the kindness of others. And it happens so quickly. Every time I'm impressed by this immediate, seemingly unquestioned, helpful attitude. Roger was a fellow cyclist, retired Army Ranger, and used to be part of the Army's triathlon team. That's 8 miles swimming, followed by 100 miles biking, and then finishing with a marathon. No joke! He now takes it easy by doing centuries through the Ozarks. Ha! Real nice guy, I enjoyed talking with him on the way down to Springfield. He knew the shop and definitely recommended it. Thanks Roger for the help and the conversation.

It wasn't long at all until the shop replaced the spoke and helped me improvise a way out of Springfield and back to the transam route without jumping ahead and skipping miles. I ended up taking highway 65 with its wide shoulder to Fair Grove, and witnessed a police escorted convoy of at least 150 Harleys blowing by me.

I made my way towards Ash Grove and found myself in a groove. I was feeling confident and content with the bike being fixed, and rode on listening to my ipod and thinking about things falling back into place. The sun was setting and that golden sheen fell across the fields as I rode past the continuous farmland. One of those rare moments set in, set to music, where all the difficulties seem to fade away and you find a strange pronounced appreciation for where you are, and the moment that you are in. I've had a few of these before on long solo road trips, but you can't ever produce them, seek them, or replicate them. Sometimes they just happen. It felt like a beautiful recovery.About a mile before arriving in Ash Grove, I hit a hard crack at the bottom of a hill and lost some pressure to the tire. I figured it to be a pinch flat, but it never flattened out. There was a sudden loss of pressure but I was able to comfortably roll into town and get aquainted. I picked up some food at a local convenince store, the only thing open at 8 on a Saturday night, and made my way to the city park. Despite the flat, I was still feeling good as I set up my tent under the pavilion. I filled the tire to check it in the morning and see if it needed to be changed.

I awoke at about 4am to the sound of thunder and strong winds pushing on the tent. The craziest lightning I've ever witnessed moved in and I laid there under the pavilion, watching the flashes of light fill my closed tent like constant strobes. It went on for almost an hour and I repeatedly waited for the pavilion to burst into flames as the lightning strikes were certainly coming down over me. They were accompanied with that immediate chest quaking thunder that just pounds your nerves. I remember once experiencing a lightning strike like this in Chicago. I was pumping gas when a blinding light flashed and thunder hit that sent me diving to the ground along with the cabbie next to me. We both got up and stared at each other with jaws dropped like we needed to go change our pants. I remember shaking for an hour after that. It was intense and had me pretty scared again this time. Never experienced anything like that before.

Day 33 - Friday, June 12

Start - Houston, MO
End - Marshfield, MO
Miles (on the route) - 63.5
Miles (total) - 72.4
Avg Spd - 13.1mph
Max Spd - 38.5mph
Total Ride Time - 5:41

I woke up once again trying to get things back on track, hoping for a bit of a better start than yesterday. Kids from a nearby school or daycare center were in the park playing, screaming at each other and their teacher, "Look, there's a tent! And there's a man in there!" I didn't want to make anyone nervous, so I got going and was on the bike by 9am.
It was another day of hill climbing and heat, thought not the worst of it like previous days. And finally no warnings of severe storms or possible tornadoes. My ride took me through a few small towns and eventually brought me into the sizable Marshfield, population 5720, around dinner time. I immediately got directions to the firehouse and headed there to check about tenting and getting a much needed shower. Turns out it was only staffed during the day, but a volunteer fireman who happened to be there directed me to the fairgrounds where I could camp and even shower. Awesome! Just before heading over I met a couple walking by who immediately wanted to find out what I was up to.Turns out they had been travelling for several years by RV and we swapped several questions about the practicalities and logistics of each other's chosen journeys. They also informed me that I had already travelled on a brief portion of the infamous Route 66, but I never did see any signs.
I got showered up and found a laundromat, which was also needed, and then biked out for a wild Friday night at the Marshfield Pizza Hut. This was kind of a big deal after the last several days in smaller Missouri towns. I was dreaming of just diving into a giant pizza. It may sound sad at times, but finding tasty satisfying food can be one of the only treats on this trip. Many days I find myself climbing hills a biking sweaty miles motivated by the prospects of an amazing dinner, and then settling into the tent and chatting on the phone with a friend or two. This trip has boiled life's joys down to the basics.
I ended the night camped under a pavilion at the Marshfield fairgrounds. That night I was awakened by the strangest noise, the sound of something whaling and running around the park several times. Whatever it was, it circled the pavilion and ran off, whaling and howling into the night. I was briefly worried it may be the ghost of Donny the Dachshund, back to torment me and seek revenge.

Day 32 - Thursday, June 11

Start - Eminence, MO
End - Houston, MO
Miles (on the route) - 42.0

Miles (total) - 49.05
Avg Spd - ?
Max Spd - 38.0mph
Total Ride Time - ?
So feeling relaxed and with little mileage underneath my belt the last few days, I woke up and was ready to roll by nine and looking for a big day. I had a great conversation with a local guy at the convenience store who noticed the bike and had some questions. Turns out he is a big rider too and has a Surly bicycle himself. He was a pretty cool guy and we chatted about riding, and beer when I noticed he was wearing a Surly Brewing shirt. Miss the Surly Furious!

I was again told that the next section would be the roughest section of rollercoaster hills. The humidity was still up there and sure enough, it was up and down, up and down. I got about 3 or 4 miles out when I realized I left my riding gloves sitting on the back of my bike. They were gone at this point so I turned around to find them. I couldn't just leave them behind, they a sort of keepsake from the trip after I'm finished. One glove turned up right away, but the other was 4 miles back at the convenience store. I didn't care to repeat several miles of hills, but it needed to be done.
So I left Eminence again. Going over the same hills and by the same houses for the third time, I was ready for a little dachshund that chased me twice already. We'll call him Donny, Donny the dachshund. As I approached his yard, I slowed to a crawl hoping to disinterest him in the chase, but at the last moment he saw me and steamed out into the street. And as I've been fearing, a pickup came around the bend and Donny never saw it coming. He missed the wheels but came up with an open side, right in front of his leg. He yelped and chased the wound in a circle for a few seconds, barking, before running underneath a pickup in front of the yard. I informed the owner who initially dismissed the whole incident because Donny was only a stray who had been staying there for a few months. When I explained he wasn't dead and needed treatment, she sighed and said she knew a veterinarian. I don't think Donny made it. The owner didn't seem too interested in Donny's well being and I figure the vet will take the cheapest end. As much as many of these dogs have angered me, I didn't want to see something like this happen, especially to a harmless little dachshund. The whole thing angered me, but it's the owners I hold responsible.
So that killed my mood. I've been stuck in a rut and this didn't help. I climbed the hills and they slowly started to mellow a bit as I moved closer to Houston. Arriving there I was split between keeping the bike rolling or calling it a day. I succumbed to my still negative mood and headed for town to find the library and the park. It was early retirement for the day, but I really just wanted to relax and hope for a better start to the next day. I phoned a few friends and watched the sunset while some locals played tennis in the park.

Day 31 - Wednesday, June 10
Start - Centerville, MO
End - Eminence, MO
Miles (on the route) - 42.0
Miles (total) - 42.75
Avg Spd - 11.0mph
Max Spd - 41.0mph
Total Ride Time - 3:50
Going to bed early lastnight had me awake just before 7am. The rain was gone and looked to be clearing, and soon the clouds broke allowing the sun to shine through for the first time while I packed up. Maybe I can pick up some extra miles today. I checked into the police station again before leaving to use the bathroom and get some weather updates. I was told again storms would be moving in this afternoon, again with severe potential. And for the second day in a row, I was told I had the worst or the Ozarks starting as soon as I leave town.
While in the police station I found an intriguing sight, a large showcase of confiscated marijuana paraphernalia. All sorts of creatively designed bongs, pipes, and cleverly disguised containers for hiding the drugs. It almost appeared to be a shrine of sorts, and atop was a picture of a suited gentleman with the words, "Our hero!" Maybe he was the DA.
I rode the hills into Ellington, with vehicles honking at me along the way, and stopped there for a drink. The lady at the convenience store warned me again of the storms approaching, and said there was tornado potential. This must be just a daily occurence. She also warned me of the logging trucks and to be careful on these narrow winding roads. I've already gathered most of the situation; if a logging truck is coming through, just get the hell off the road. They aren't moving for anybody.
The skies stayed clear and sunny for the morning ride, though the humidity was ridiculous and with every hill climb I had sweat just running off my arms and legs. My gloves were soaked as well as my socks and the rest of my riding clothes. These rollercoaster hills were tough; repeated ups and downs with few breaks to just pedal at a steady pace. These weren't as bad as the Appalachians, but they were a task all their own.I mad it about 40 miles into Eminence by lunch time, and looked for a meal. Again I got repeated warnings of the approaching nasty weather, and was told severe thunderstorms, with tornado potential, would be hitting by 2 or 3. With that being the case, I decided it probably wouldn't be a good risk to try to make it 20 miles to the next town of Summersville. Convinced my tent wouldn't make the storm, I decided to brakdown and get a motel. I was able to barter with a place in town for a room for 30 dollars. I suppose I could use a little plush comfort.
Eminence was a big riding town, and for a population of 550 people, the tourism had the town at least double that. There were numerous restaurants, cabin sites and motels, and people riding horses everywhere. This was real cowboy country, with all the men in button downs, cowboy hats, jeans and leathers, and everybody wearing cowboy boots. Tack shops galore. This place was active, and a bit different from previous Missouri towns and from what I expected. I got some BBQ and spent most of the day relaxing in the motel room enjoying the simple mindless pleasures of cable television, a hot shower, and air conditioning. Best part is, it never did rain a single drop this day. No storms. I think I'm done listening to the locals who dispense weather while sipping coffee. I felt silly about dropping the money on a motel, but I can't say I didn't enjoy just taking an easy day relaxing with missed amenities.

Day 30 - Tuesday, June 9

Start - Farmington, MO

End - Centerville, MO

Miles (on the route) - 51.0

Miles (total) - 51.0

Avg Spd - 13.7mph

Max Spd - 41.0mph

Total Ride Time - 3:43

I started my day at the laundromat for some more much needed business and then spent a brief time at the library. Storms were supposed to be moving in again today and I'm beginning to gather that this is going to be a daily thing in Missouri and probably Kansas. This time I'm hearing chances of severe thunderstorms. I was also warned that the Ozarks would really start kicking in and it would be rollercoaster hills for many miles.

The storms hovered over me most of the day, but without doing much damage until late that afternoon. The sun would take peaks but it was soon lost for day. I've started getting alot of honks from drivers. Doesn't seem to matter if there is traffic around or not, they don't appear to want me out there. There was a bit yesterday also, once I got into Missouri. I had one truck repeatedly honk his horn and shake his fist, yelling. At least he did give me room! The hills grew more frequent and became the rollercoaster hills of which I was warned. The roads were narrow and winding, and combined with the constant hills lack of shoulder were not the safest I had been on. Trees were down along the roadside from a recent storm apparently. And that was about the time the rain began. It was light but had me pretty wet by the time I got to Centerville. On account of the severe storm warnings and the darkening sky, I stopped at the Sherrif's office and asked about the weather. I was told there was a tornado and large hail about a half hour prior and only aobut ten miles away, but it had already passed. The officer told me they didn't think there was anything behind it and I should be ok to move on to Ellington about 15 miles down the road. I stopped at the convenience store on my way out to grab a drink and that's when the flood gates opened. It started pouring and whipping wind, and the lightning became severe. I stood in that convenience store for aobut an hour before it lightened up enough to go back to the police station and see about staying in the town for the night. It was a small town of about 170 people, and I was told I could set up the tent in the courtyard in fron of the courthouse. That didn't seem too inviting on account of the light show that was going on, but I found a covered porch on the side of the courthouse and set up my tent underneath there. The rain never did let up that night, and neither did the lightning. I'm glad I didn't set out for Ellington afterall. I slept well in the tent that night despite the storm, and hoped for a clearer tomorrow.

Day 29 - Monday, June 8
Start - Chester, IL
End - Farmington, MO
Miles (on the route) - 44.5
Miles (total) - 48.75
Avg Spd - 11.0mph
Max Spd - 39.5mph
Total Ride Time - 4:20
The day started with a light drizzle but it quickly cleared up. It was clear and sunny skies for the afternoon. I used the library and headed down to the Mississippi to cross into Missouri. I found the statue of Popeye at the base of the bridge and grabbed a quick photo. The bridge ride was not the most fun I've had. Traffic was light all the way to Chester, but this must be a major crossing because there were plenty of trucks whizzing by and over the bridge. I tried to time it best and bike as fast as I could because there was no extra room, just the two lanes. I don't think the trucks liked seeing me out there.

Missouri started out flat as can be, no hills along the Mississippi. I found the directions and road signs to be a bit different. I can't recall being in another state where the roads are lettered instead of numbered or named. Here is a sample of my first 20 miles into Missouri, "Right onto State Road H, left onto US 61, right onto SR Z, right onto SR N, left onto SR P, left onto SR B." So that's a little different. The hills started to creep in, nothing crazy but frequent. And along with the hills, came the storms. They seemed to be with me through the late afternoon, but just North or South of me. I made a mistake on my travels, passing by a convenience store to stop at the next town 5 miles down the road. I didn't take not that the convenience store I passed was the one listed for the town. I was out of water and had about 25 miles to go to Farmington. It was either backtrack 5 miles of hills or just go for Farmington, which isn't the end of the world. I went ahead and moved on, but found myself rather thirsty when I rolled into town.

I made my way straight to the firehouse hoping to score a much needed shower after a humid day of hills. I was enthusiastically greeted right away and invited in to relax. There was another biker there, Dave, who was travelling East. He had been stranded there with a broken rim, waiting for a bike shop to open up on Tuesday morning a few towns away. I grabbed a shower right away and Dave and I walked a few blocks to a local tavern where I had an amazing burger and a few local microwbrews. Finally, good beer! Dave and I chatted about the trip, sharing stories of interesting parts, people, and disasters. He had already lost a few days earlier in his trip due to an infected saddle sore that needed to be opened up by a doctor. Ouch! No Bueno! The route for him began in Washington, where he rode south on the coastline into California, and then East joining the transam route in Colorado.

We ended up hanging out with the firefighters out front of the station for a few hours, trading amusing stories and jokes. Mike, Chris, and Mongo were pulling their 24 hour shift while we were there. Mongo (from Blazing Saddles) was a bear sized man who got his name from a time he was moving into a second floor apartment and his fellow firefighters were late to help him move. So he did it by himself, including bear-hugging a washer and carrying it up the steps! These days he wears a knee brace because all of the cartilage in his knee is destroyed. Go figure. But these guys were great and had me cracking up all evening. Dave and I joked about how this trip is like being in a submarine (Dave had actually spent time in a submarine in the Navy), where you are going half nuts from the lack of interaction with women. You are anxious to just to see an attractive woman. Dave and the firefighters were joking about a group of 3 young women riders about a week ahead of me who they each had met. Apparently Mongo and the guys were at a fire when they were notified that 3 female riders were going to be staying the night at the station, and Mongo drove the firetruck back to the station faster than to the fire. These guys were great and Missouri seems alright.

Day 28 - Sunday, June 7
Start - Carbondale, IL
End - Chester, IL
Miles (on the route) - 50.5
Miles (total) - 55.6
Avg Spd - 13.5mph
Max Spd - 33.5mph
Total Ride Time - 3:50
I was really struggling with motivation this morning, just didn't have a desire to get on the bike. Being in a city this large kinda had me longing for some of the normalcy I haven't had in some time. It was Sunday and having a leisure day sounded right, relaxing at Barnes & Noble to read some magazines or finding a music shop and browsing. I haven't taken a single day off besides the day in Lexington, VA with the bike out of commission; maybe it's time. I decided to catch a movie at the theatre and assess afterwards.
Went to see Terminator Salvation which was moderately entertaining. I suppose it satisfied my need for some escape from the trip because afterward I felt ready to jump on and do some mileage.My travels took me to Murphysboro and then alternate routes to Chester along the Mississippi. I chose the Mississippi levee alternate route that would take me out into more rural territory and along the levees by the Mississippi. I thought it would be interesting scenery, and it was flatter of course. The ride was peaceful through mostly farm country, spotted with little bodies of water trapped from Mississippi flooding. The ride took me up onto gravel roads on top of the levee and past a major coal operation. What appeared to be a mostly automated coal train station loaded car after car as far as I could see. Humming and buzzing with alarms as each car advanced. Between the station and the Mississippi a kid was fishing from some of the trapped flood waters and I stopped to chat. He told me his fishes there often but doesn't recommend eating anything from there due to the coal plant. We talked about the area, and he explained he doesn't care for southern Illinois. He's lived all over the west coast and preferred that area. With a recent graduation from high school he's decided to join the army because he says he won't be able to find a job in the local small towns. "The Army isn't laying anyone off," he explained. Throughout these travels from town to town I've wondered what it would be like to live there, how much would be different? I'm thankful I've never looked at such limited options. I'm not sure if I've just had other opportunities or always considered different options.My ride eventually brought me into Chester, the home of Popeye! Most of the businesses and other buildings were decorated with murals of the Popeye characters and throughout the town were statues of the various characters. These are the neat things you find that you would never expect. The city park offered free camping so my next priority was getting some dinner. I happened upon a pizza/italian restaurant and met a couple guys on the way in. They said they were passing through and invited me to join them. Mike and Skip were from St. Louis and operated a BBQ joint called Pappy's Smokehouse. They were on their way south to pick up some smokers and then headed to NYC, Madison Square Garden, for a big BBQ invitational. They've only been open for a year and a half but have already garnered quite a bit of acclaim. All the discussion had me ready to turn North and go straight to St. Louis for some brisket, but it will have to wait a few more months! I had big plate of pasta and chatted with them over dinner, and had a great time. Real nice guys. They even ended up buying my dinner, but I'll be buying dinner from them in St. Louis.

Day 27 - Saturday, June 6
Start - Eddyville, IL
End - Carbondale, IL
Miles (on the route) - 53.5
Miles (total) - 56.75
Avg Spd - 12.4mph
Max Spd - 37mph
Total Ride Time - 4:18
Today's ride evened out a bit from the rollercoaster hills of yesterday. My ride took me past several bikers going the opposite direction. They didn't have any bags so I figured them not to be going cross country, though there are supported groups that don't carry their own gear. Several groups of Harley riders again zoomed past me, making me jealous at times of having an engine. And then finally Carbondale, a rather serious sized city at just over 20,000 people.
Entering Carbondale brought me by the University of Southern Illinois, the Salukis. Everything around there seemed to be run down, aged. I didn't get a good feeling riding into town, which was dissapointing considering I was looking forward to visiting another good college town. I checked in with the fire station where they said I could camp, and they told me about a serious storm some weeks back that knocked down many of the trees behind the station. They said it was an "inland hurricane" with winds reaching 100mph. I guess I'm moving into storm country.
I was told to make sure I hit up one of the bike shops in Carbondale because it would be the last one for several hundred miles, so I headed straight for the Bike Surgeon. I got there about 5 minutes before closing time, but they graciously said they would definitely go over the bike and make sure everything was in good shape. They, and several previous bike shops, really praised the bike choice of the Surly Long Haul Trucker and said it would hold up great; the best ride for the trip. After looking everything over and tightening a few things, the only thing it really needed was some rear break pads. I guess I wore them down pretty good on the Blue Ridge and Appalachian Mountain. The guys at the Bike Surgeon were friendly and more than helpful, explaining everything they were checking and educating me to make my own adjustments. There definitely seems to be a strong fraternity, or comradery amongst the bikers. I rolled around town and found another chinese buffet, and definitely filled up again. Spent some time in a Barnes & Noble just to reaquaint myself with modern society.
I definitely noticed a disproportionate number of odd people in this city. Not sure how else to explain it. Not sure if they are homeless or mentally ill, but there were many street walkers that didn't quite seem to have their bearings. This city seemed depressed.

Day 26 - Friday, June 5
Start - Marion, KY
End - Eddyville, IL
Miles (on the route) - 44.5
Miles (total) - 45.75
Avg Spd - 11.5mph
Max Spd - 37.5mph
Total Ride Time - 3:52
I started the day at the library again, updating the blog. I'm starting to think, as much as I enjoy this, the blogging is taking too much time and interfering with the actual trip. It's a good thing, but documentation shouldn't take precedence over the actual experience. I've always struggled with that balance in taking photos, and nowadays I've really relaxed on the photo documentation. I'm more settled with the idea of just taking in the times without always thinking about the camera. I'll have to evaluate my schedule and approach to better utilize the day. Before leaving the library, I found a scale in the bathroom and curiosity struck. I started the trip at 219lbs. Stepping on the scale I found out I had dropped to 208! 11lbs already? I was not expecting to lose that much that quickly! I had an idea I had lost some, considering my shorts and jeans don't really stay on me anymore, but this was surprising. I guess I'll definitely need a new suit once I reach Portland.
It was an easy 12 miles to the Ohio River where I would take the ferry into Illinois. I boarded with a group of Harley riders who were also touring. Even though this was the official route, I felt like it was a bit of a cheat. If I had the room on the ferry I think I would have ridden laps just to maintain personal satisfaction. A short ride across and into Cave In Rock, Illinois brought me to a home of sorts. Familiar license plates, but that would be about it. I found out soon enough southern Illinois isn't really anything like the Chicago area with which I'm familiar. Right off the bat it was rollercoaster hills and some of the worse roads I had been on. Rough sealed blacktop made for an annoying ride, mostly because it doesn't let me feel the condition of the bike.
My day's ride brought me to Eddyville where I was directed to camp at a pavilion at the town rec center. With a population of 153, there was one spot for dinner - the Shawnee restaurant and lounge. The parking lot consisted of two Harleys, two cars, and about thirty pickups. Oh, and one bicycle. Turns out, it's all-u-can-eat catfish night! Score! Entering the place I noticed several tables of cowboy hats and their ladies, and I made my way to the bar. I talked with some locals and horseback riders who told me this was the horseback riding capitol of Illinois. After several plates of catfish, I was asked if I was planning on sticking around for the show. They explained at 9:30 the dj sets up for karaoke and the other crowd comes in for the night. It was about then that I noticed the sign on the wall that read, "Dancing on the bar at your own risk!" Interesting.

I decided to stick around and have a few beers, seeing how I could after a dry Kentucky, and sure enough it turned into quite a show. It started out with some roudier country music and the locals, mostly already drunk, came in and started some dancing. Then, strangely, they started playing the rap music; Nelly I believe. Kid you not, the cowboy hats were getting tossed and I actually heard a few "yahoo"s! There was even an older man in overalls that looked alot like Wilford Brimley getting in on the action. Then Candy showed up, and I heard about five people exclaim, "Oh god, now you'll get a show!" She's a local with a bit of a legacy shall we say. And not to dissapoint, at one point I counted six girls dancing on the bar, and one cowboy in a denim vest.

About the only thing missing from this night was a big fight where barstools get broken over backs. And I left before midnight so it may have happened. I fell asleep in the tent with the sounds of the Shawnee Lounge in the distance.

Day 25 - Thursday, June 4
Start - Sebree, KY
End - Marion, KY
Miles (on the route) - 43
Miles (total) - 47.75
Avg Spd - 13.2mph
Max Spd - 34mph
Total Ride Time - 3:24
Woke up clean with clean clothes and got the bike blessed before leaving the church. It was raining pretty steady so I rode about 10 miles to the town of Dixon and made a stop at their library. Spent a few hours trying to update the blog and waiting for the rain to calm. Most of the time spent there was a waste with the internet repeatedly cutting out and the computer freezing up. This was the first library that blocked content and explicitly forbid the use of evil websites like myspace and facebook. NO IMing either! Apparently this is the problem with kids these days.
The day's travels were pretty smooth with the exception of a series of climbs to get into Marion. I was hoping to get into Illinois today, but I wasted too much time at the library in Dixon. I knew I had a park to stay at so I ended the day about 10 miles shy of the state border. I explored the town looking for a spot to eat and found a Mexican Restaurant! Woohoo! It was no El Nuevo Mexicano or El Vez, but it would do for now. I can't wait to get to Colorado and eat southwestern food everyday! It was another dry county so I didn't have any options to go and watch the NBA finals. I biked to the city park and called it a night.

Day 24 - Wednesday, June 3
Start - McDandiels, KY
End - Sebree, KY
Miles (on the route) - 79.5
Miles (total) - 81.75
Avg Spd - 14mph
Max Spd - 38.5mph
Total Ride Time - 5:42
I got up that morning refreshed from the shower. Couldn't start the day any better. There was a chance of getting some storms but in the morning it was looking pretty good. I felt like today might be a good day to put on some big mileage, getting an early start and the terrain would be descending over the course of the day.
It was all sun out to Whitesville where I stopped for water and a short break at the convenience store. When I left, the sun was gone and dark clouds were moving directly towards me. I was lucky the route changed direction, south, and I thought maybe I could move swiftly and get below the storm. The winds picked up and the thunder and lightning moved in. I started taking note of shelter if I had to abandon the road for a bit, but the storm was always just next to me. Storms continued to move around my path but never actually moved overhead, so I was able to ride dry.
I made another stop later in the afternoon at small country store in Ohio County where I got a snack and chatted with the lady working there. I had noticed various posters regarding meth use in recent areas, and this store additionally had "hot spot" cards to anonymously report meth labs and other drug related crimes. I had alway heard that meth was a big problem in these smaller towns, but I took the opportunity to get an insider's opinion, and asked the clerk about the prevalence of meth in the area. She explained it was pretty serious in this county and several of the neighbroring counties, and eventually even told me of her own teenage son having been caught up in the drug for several years, eventually serving three years in prison. He's been clean now for a year and a half and is now focused on working and a relationship he's in with a supportive girlfriend. She says she sees it often, but she's not sure why some of the kids get caught up in it. I'm not sure that these small towns would be any better a spot to raise a child than a large city.
I eventually rolled into Sebree around 6:30, considering trying to go for a century, 100 miles. But it wouldn't be long until dusk and I knew of places I could definitely stay in Sebree. I took the sure thing and headed over to the First Baptist Church that advertised "hostel like accomodations." Turns out my reward for the 80 mile ride was 5 star accomodations! Violet, showed me around the recreation room where I could stay for no charge. I had a shower, laundry facilities, mattresses, a fully stocked kitchen, and a big screen tv. This was luxury!I got cleaned up and went down to the dairy bar for a burger and a chocolate shake. That night I dozed off on the couch watching the news and getting caught up in what is actually happening in the world.

Day 23 - Tuesday, June 2
Start - Hodgenville, KY
End - McDaniels, KY
Miles (on the route) - 46
Miles (total) - 51.65
Avg Spd - 13.2mph
Max Spd - 36mph
Total Ride Time - 3:51
Got a late start this day, doingd laundry in town in the morning and then went over to the local library to work on the internet. Got some things done that I needed to get done, and got Subway on the way out. Getting the laundry done is crucial, nothing motivates like actually having clean clothes to wear for the day.
I finally passed into the Central Time Zone this afternoon, a landmark of sorts. Central time has been my home for the last two years so again it was a return to something familiar. Speaking of which, I started coming across Amish today, riding in the horse and buggy and also doing construction along various parts of the route. Didn't know there were significant populations in Kentucky, but I knew they weren't far north in Indiana. Again a comforting sight, almost like back home in Lancaster.
I found a place to stay that evening in the small town of McDaniels. While waiting for the fire crew to return to the station, I got a pizza at the country store across the street. Eventually a truck and some water towing four wheelers rolled back to the station and I asked if I could throw down the tent for the night. It was early, but storms were moving in and I didn't want to roll the dice too much. They let me shower up and takled with the crew for a while. The captain explained it was an all volunteer fire department staffed with one of her sons and a few other guys. I guess I never really thought about it but it was surprising to hear of their setup. The fire department is all volunteer, they don't get paid a dime and drop everything with every call. They don't even get reimbursed for gas for all the drives to and from the fire station. About 60% of the community donates to keep the fire station funded. It's strange to think that such a serious need is provided by a few volunteers. Seems like something more would be done for such a group, but these towns are small and maybe the funds aren't there. Somebody has to do it, and thank God these people do.

Day 22 - Monday, June 1

Start - Bardstown, KY

End - Hodgenville, KY

Miles (on the route) - 42.5

Miles (total) - 55.75

Avg Spd - 10.1mph

Max Spd - 32.5mph

Total Ride Time - 5:29

Woke up refocused and ready to make some ground. I made my way out of Bardstown towards Loretto where I would visit the home of Maker's Mark. The day started rough with repeated up and down hills and temperatures climbing into the upper 80s. I finally got a taste of the real heat, lots of water today. I'm definitely in the bible belt now. Frequent dry counties, and more public postings of the ten comandments than you could imagine. I included the picture below as a notable observation, an example of the public signs and greater community image that I come across each day in these parts. Please refrain from debate or political comment, it is strictly documentation of my trip.

The Maker's Mark distillery was on gorgeous grounds, and I got another great tour. We were led through the entire bourbon making process and got to taste the fermenting liquid in the large wooden vats. Another tasting was the conclusion where I tried the Maker's bourbon and also the white dog, the unaged and still clear corn alcohol. The white dog is not nearly as good.

By the conclusion of the tour it was late in the afternoon and I still had miles to put on so I biked the next 30 miles straight to Hodgensville where I would be spending the night in the city park. It slowly started to cool as I biked through flatter land, listening music on the ipod. I don't listen to the ipod everyday, more often not, but I really enjoy it for days where I want to bike to a destination and get there in my own head. That's not my usual approach as I'm often trying to stay in the moment and the experience, listening to the sounds around me and just taking in the scenery. But I've also found the music great for keeping grounded when transient, tapping into memories. I've been exploring some albums that I haven't listened to in quite a while, and they flood me with the feelings of old times. That's something I've always loved about road trips, driving. Playing whole albums, sinking into the music and almost reexperiencing all the memories that come with them. Albums are as good a time capsule as anything. A good album always puts a time stamp on life.

I rolled into Hodgensville, with its modest population of 2,874 and the birthplace of Abraham Lincoln. On my way to the park I rolled by a strange scene, a man dressed in all blue on a lawn chair in the middle of his yard, and next to him was his white and blue pimped out PT Cruiser. This was worth investigating. I turned around and approached to see what this was all about. Turns out I had just stumbled upon Mr. Wildcat, King Henry; the number one Kentucky Wildcats fan! He immediately invited me in to see his "home." He explained he can't call it a museum becuase then he would be required to provide parking for 30 vehicles. Inside was every bit of Wildcat memorabilia you could imagine! Floor to ceiling, wall to wall, no space was left blank from something blue; Pictures, basketballs, shirts, hats, glassware, newspaper clippings, even special edition Maker's Mark bottles. Every inch of this house was covered! King Henry was about as nice a person as I've ever met, and talked of loving to give some of his souveniers to the children that come to visit. He sent me off with a pack of official Kentucky Wildcat chewing gum! Awesome! Sorry for the poor quality indoor pictures, but most of his interior lighting was blue and didn't do a great job of actually illuminating the rooms.

I had a dinner of catfish and a chocolate shake and made my way to the park where the local high school was finishing their baseball game. Again, I was the creepy spectator in spandex. It happens. Back in the groove.

Day 21 - Sunday, May 31
Start - Bardstown, KY
End - Bardstown, KY
Miles (on the route) - all off route
Miles (total) - 35.1
Avg Spd - 13.4
Max Spd - 27
Total Ride Time - 2:28
It was another sunny day and we relaxed for a bit around the now smoldering fire pit. Ben and I chatted over some hot cocoa and caught up. He just finished his master's program and Anice is set to finish up her PHD this fall so they are approaching a time of opportunity, for some change that is. I suppose I've been floating in a time of opportunity for some years now, and maybe need to commit myself to something. I could really go anywhere, and do anything at this point. No real strong ties, nothing of necessity. I don't think I would be interested in moving to someplace new, not for the sake of moving anyway. I've been to some different places, and I've left friends and made new ones. I'm not sure there is anything that important in a city that you don't find in the friendships you have there. And while there may be better backdrops than Chicago or Philadelphia, or even Lancaster, I don't know that I have it in me to make another big move again. Unless something takes me to a new place. School perhaps. Anyway, I try to keep an open mind, maybe something will keep me in Portland at the end of this trip. Maybe I just keep biking. We headed into town where we got some breakfast. Downtown Bardstown is defeinitely different. It seems to have been frozen in time without a trace of modern chain stores in its downtown quarters. The streets are lined with small shops, cafes and restaraunts, and mom and pop pharmacies. One pharmacy even had an old time soda fountain and counter. It was a town where you want to go walking.
After breakfast we headed to the Heaven Hill distillery in Bardstown. We got a tour through their rick house where they age the barrels of bourban, and you could smell it in the air. The evaporating bourbon they called angel's share. Afterwards, we were taken into a large circular room and bar and given 12 year and 18 year bourbons to try. "Bourbon and Branch" seemed to be the way to go, adding just a few drops of water to the bourbon to smooth it out. I'm not sure Hannah agreed though with some of the faces she was making. We soon set out for Clermont, the home of Jim Beam. Ben and I suited up and took an easier day with only 17 miles to ride. It was mostly flatter territory but also a busier road, only a narrow bit of smooth shoulder outside the rumble strip. We made pretty good time, and arrived at Jim Beam to find out it was dry county Sunday! Woohoo! No purchases and no tastings! Awesome! So we looked at the gift shop, hung out with the statue of Booker Noe (grandson of Jim Beam), and drank a beer on the lawn. It was finally time for them to return to their lives in Columbus, which meant I had to go back to solo trecking. It was great to have friends around for the weekend, and share a bit of the riding. But it was certainly difficult, sad, to have them leave. I was a bit jealous to know they got to go back to friends and familiar surroundings, but maybe they had similar envious feelings. I suppose everybody is often at least a bit curious about being somewhere a little bit different than where they are at the moment. I guess that's how I got here in the first place. I know I just need to get back out there and ride again, fall back into the routine and I'll regain my focus.
I rode back to Bardstown and had some dinner and a beer at the old tavern by the town square. It was an old inn with a long list of historical figures who had stayed there including Abraham Lincoln and Daniel Boone. I talked to a local cop for a bit and made camp in the town park. Back at it in the morning.

Day 20 - Saturday, May 30
Start - Lawrencebug, KY
End - Bardstown, KY
Miles (on the route) - all off route
Miles (total) - 39.5
Avg Spd - 11mph
Max Spd - 26mph
Total Ride Time - 3:36
I awoke this morning to a treat. Ben, Anice, and Hannah were already awake and got breakfast going. These guys brought all sorts of goodies for the weekend and at least for a few days I wouldn't have to be slumming it. After some oatmeal, we got the bikes prepped, Ben reassembling his and I adjusting my tire. We looked like two power rangers in our riding gear, myself the red ranger and Ben the blue. Now Ben is no pro biker either, and he hasn't had the pleasure of on-the-trip training these past three weeks so there was some curiosity as to how he'd handle being thrown into a 40 mile day. I was glad we were past the mountains, but it wasn't exactly flat terrain either. And our start out of the campground was a series of steep hills so we would get warmed up quick. We made a good pace on a day that was a series of inclines and declines, taking our first break at 17 miles. The roads had little traffic and winded us through farm hills and scattered ranch houses. You'd like to ride side by side and chat the whole trip, but you do have to watch for traffic. The second half of the ride to Bardstown introduced more hill climbs and slowly started to wear us thin. But with perserverance, we rolled into bardstown after 3.5 hours of riding and in good shape. Ben did pretty well considering his previous long ride was twenty miles. We stopped for 25cent bubba cola at the local Sav-Alot and rode through downtown Bardstown on the way to the My Old Kentucky Home State Park. Anice and Hannah had driven there and already got the site setup. We planned to make a real fire this day and I finally got to put the HATCHET to use. I felt alive with that thing, pwerful, chopping up the wood. Imagining if those mountain dogs would attack again I would bury that thing deep into..... sorry. That HATCHET brings out another side. Finally Ben got the fire going and Anice made quite a fine dinner of pasta and sausage. This beats my ramen and chef boyardee canned goods! More beer and a fine dinner, and then smores around the fire, mine sans marshmallow. Weird, I know. I showered and all was right with the world. The scattered clouds during the day broke and let the sun shine for the evening. This was finally a fine vacation from the supposed vacation I've been on. P.S. A little contest here! Best caption for the above picture of Ben taking a roadside rest gets an official pair of TransAm socks, worn by me! Keep it reasonably clean!