Day 17 - Wednesday, May 27

Start - Booneville, KY

End - Berea, KY

Miles (on the route) - 55.5

Miles (total) - 59.65

Avg Spd - 11.9mph

Max Spd - 34.5mph

Total Ride Time - 4:50

A fifty mile day has become somewhat commonplace, so I didn't worry about taking care of a few things in the morning before setting out for Berea, the end of my second map section. I stopped at the local library in Booneville, hoping I could jump on what is probably their only computer and update the blog. Surprise, they have 8 or 9 computers in that library... for a town of 105. On a per capita basis, that would be the equivalent of almost 200,000 computers in the Chicago Library system. I'm not sure, but I think there are less than that. It's good thing for Booneville, just didn't expect it.

I spent the day riding through hilly country. No crazy climbs, just frequent ups and downs. It showered off and on through the afternoon, with the biggest downpour of the trip so far arriving as soon as I got a flat on an old single lane farm road. I could see the wall of water closing in as I hurried to get the tube changed out, but not quick enough. Riding in the rain is not a big deal, and can even be a bit cooling with all the heat and humidity as of late. But it only served to frustrate while I changed the tube.

I rolled into Berea that evening, still damp and needing a shower. All day I thought about maybe just finally spending a couple dollars and getting a place to stay and enjoying a hot shower. But frugality kicks in and I look to keep it cheap. The local fire station was willing to let me camp on the property and even let me shower, so I got what I was looking for anyway without the pricetag. Awesome! It pays to ask around first! And the biggest score of all was finding a chinese buffet in town, the kind with the soft serve machine and everything! Time to cash in! I assure you they lost money that night!

Day 16 - Tuesday, May 26

Start - Hindman, KY
End - Booneville, KY

Miles (on the route) - 65.5

Miles (total) - 69.65

Avg Spd - 11.3mph

Max Spd - 34mph

Total Ride Time - 5:55

I woke up, thanked Paul once more for the use of the facilities and left to go to Hazard. My clothes needed to be washed pretty bad and the closest sure bet was Hazard with a population of 5000. It was only a few miles off the route so I was confident I would be able to still make good ground on the day. On my way out of Hindman, I had another dog attack. I waived and said hello to a lady standing in her front yard, and as she smiled and waived back, her 50+lb beast came charging from the side of the house. I heard her lazily call the dogs name, as closed in and latched onto my rear right panier. He put his weight into the kill and got my bike swerving quite a bit. He kept with me a few hundred feet down the road before finally quitting and heading home. My reward? A nice tear down the back of my panier. I knew I brought duct tape for a reason. The bags were nice, and not cheap, but I guess battle scars are fun. I know it sounds cruel to some, but I'm shopping for pepper spray. It's officially necessary!

On my way into Hazard I came across this piece of American kitsch. I hope I find more across this great land. I know there is the world's lagest twine ball somewhere out west! Reminds me of that 30ft Amish man in southern Lancaster county.

The climbs are frequent but growing more gradual, they are down to several hundred ft now instead of thousands. Things are flattening out and I can just cruise through portions of this territory. I rode through another downpour or two, but they were short lasting and it was a sunny evening's ride.

I finally made it into Booneville towards dusk, and was looking forward to settling into another actual town. Wrong! There was no population listed on the map, but it did say there were a full range of services and a library. The local church advertised on the map that they allowed campers so I was set there. The town was pretty much the meeting of two roads and the courthouse that stood there. A few houses, a dollar general, and a dairy bar and gas station. You never know exactly what you will find just by going what is indicated on the map. The dairy bar was delicious as always and I settled into my tent behind the church to call it a night. I found out the population was 105. There were more people in my last apartment building.

Day 15 - Monday, May 25

Start - Elkhorn City, KY

End - Hindman, KY

Miles (on the route) - 62.5

Miles (total) - 62.5

Avg Spd - 10.1mph

Max Spd - 31mph

Total Ride Time - 6:10

When we woke Drew had already left, apparently to get a cab all the way to Lexington, KY to get his bike repaired. I made my way to the local diner to get some breakfast, watching the locals chat about the town gossip while smoking their cigarettes and having the morning coffee. A storm soon moved in and I got my rain gear on for what would be a frequently wet day.

Storms moved in, and quickly cleared for most of the afternoon. I rode off and on with Jed and Sean as we headed toward our goal of Hindman. Our travels took us through more mountain country, even more eye opening than the previous days. Single lane back roads winded us through the mountain gaps, up and down hill climbs, passing occasional trailers and houses. Again, most were surrounded with abandoned cars, washers, dryers, toilets, and general rubbage. No landscaping, just the natural growth and surroundings. And again, many more dogs. It seems that at least two-thirds of the houses out here have dogs, and half of those dogs are unchained and without fences. We were on constant alert for the next pit bull mut that would charge us from the front porch. The barks immediately have you looking, and instantly the you find reserve power for the pedals, even if you just climbed the hillside. This is getting bad.

Although the mountains and hills are not as big as before, it seems the clouds and precipitation are getting caught in between, changing the weather system as you pass around each mountain. A new sight are the frequent dairy bars, as they call them here. Usually nothing more than roadside huts or booths with a drive-thru type window and a picnic table outside, they offer at least twentysome grill options, and ice cream and shakes. Surprisingly, they make a damn good burger!

As we closed in on Hindman, Jed got another flat. With his last tube shot, he had to hitch a ride into to the bed and breakfast he and Sean were planning to stay. Sean and I rode on, and with four major climbs on the day, we took the shortcut we were told of that took us around Pippa Passes and through the local college. Upon arriving in Hindman, I split to find free camping for the night and avoid the 30 dollar fee at the bed and breakfast. Usually asking around turns up somehting quick, but nobody in this town knew of a town park, fire station, police station, or church with campable grounds. It was getting dark and I was about to give up and spend the thirty bucks when I came across Paul, the police chief driving around. Paul couldn't think of a good spot either, and said while he has met many a biker passing through, never has one asked about a place to camp.

Big luck kicked in again, and he left me set up my tent in the back of the welcome center. I guess he the generosity got rolling for him, and he opened up his office for me to use for the night. He left me there for the night, and told me I was free to use the shower, tv, computer and the rest of the welcome center. I just had to be out by 5am so as not to scare the ladies who open up the center in the morning. So I got cleaned up, watched the Nuggets/Lakers game, and updated the blog. I was living the highlife once again! Paul had me relaxed like I was at a hotel. And no I didn't go snooping through the police chief's office, as curious as one would be.

Day 14 - Sunday, May 24

Start - Council, VA

End - Elkhorn City, KY

Miles (on the route) - 32.5

Miles (total) - 33.8

Avg Spd - 10.6

Max Spd - 33.5

Total Ride Time - 3:11

I decided to ride another day with Jed and Sean and take an easier day, about thirty miles to Elkhorn City. Jed has been having trouble popping spokes and getting flats on his back wheel, probably due to too much weight. He's not riding a touring bike and has his full load on the back wheel, obviously less than ideal and becoming a problem for him. The two of them started out the day replacing a spoke and trueing the wheel. While we got packed and ready to roll out a family reunion was amassing, and an older gentleman approached us to talk. What he said, none of us will ever know. I had a previous encounter with this "mounain speak" several years back on a day trip through South Carolina with Jr. It was a rambling roll of jive that lets understand about 1 out of every 10 words. So there I was, smiling and talking and probably not appropriately responding to anything he was saying, and him doing much of the same. It was a pleasant exchange though all the same.

The territory was definitely changing. I was now in small sparse mountain "towns," scattered collection of trailers and homes amidst the tress and mountainsides. Occasionally you pass a gas station or country store but that is about the only communal spot. At one country store and old beat up truck pulled in and a lady came out that had me a bit shocked. I don't mean to be condescending but I'm not sure how else to put it. Old worn clothes, and a weathered and worked look that tells stories of a harder lifestyle. It's shocking, enlightening, to be seeing these parts. Things are definitely different in these parts.

The ride to Elkhorn City had more of the usual cimbs, and more of the now regular occurences of dogs relentlessly chasing your speeding bike down the road. Some of these things are definitely on a mission and it's getting a bit scary.

The descent into Elkhorn City was vicious. I've been taking my time, watching my braking, and cautiously approaching the winding tight turns and plunges. But one turn surprised me and suddenly had me going downhill and rapidly gaining speed without a break in sight. This is what I've been trying to avoid. Eventually the downhill did let up and I was able to break on a slight incline at the bottom. I avoided disaster on this one, but Jed popped another tube and was down to his last one. Into Kentucky we go!

We rolled into Elkhorn City and found an officer who directed us to camp by the river in the center of town. They were wrapping up a civil war reenactment there and we found some campsites already set up for us. Another mountain town, there were just as many people travelling the roads by four wheelers, golf carts, and dirt bikes as cars. We met another biker, Drew from D.C. and before that Philadelphia, who had been stranded there for a few days with the same wheel problems as Jed. He joined us for some dinner at the cafe and we all made camp together by the river. We were all set on getting a case of beer and enjoying the early evening until we found out we were in a dry town. I just don't understand it, a town without beer...

It was a great evening all the same, sitting around the campfire, sharing stories, and listening to the river flowing by.

Day 13 - Saturday, May 23
Start - Damascus, VA
End - Council, VA
Miles (on the route) - 50.5
Miles (total) - 58.55
Avg Spd - 9.4mph
Max Spd - 40mph
Total Ride Time - 6:11
Got a late start in the morning, talking with some of the campers and doing laundry at the laundromat. I had breakfast at the diner across the street while waiting for the wash and it gave me time to further observe this town of Damascus. It was definitely different from the other smaller towns out here. With a population of only 980, I didn't expect much going on or much money in the town. But looking around, all the locals at Fatties the night before were very well dressed and drove nice cars. And looking around this morning, none of the vehicles are the older worn down trucks and beat up cars I've been seeing in many of these smaller towns. I guess some people must be doing alright here with the tourism.
While leaving Damascus I took a wrong turn and briefly went off course. Nothing too bad, just a few miles out of my way. It was another day of frequent climbing. Not much on my travels this day, more horse farms but not much in the way of towns. I came to what turned out to be my most challenging climb so far. The mountain climb just after Hayter's Gap was 4.3 miles straight up the side. All you can do is just put it into the lowest gear and keep turning the wheel. It's a bit discouraging to look at the cyclocomputer and see you are only moving about 4mph, and someone could easily walk right beside you and chat while you sweat your way up the mountainside, but it's all you can do. Every turn leaves you hoping for sign of the top, but it took over an hour for that satisfaction. I caught up with Jed and Sean (from Chicago) again at Rosedale and decided to ride with them to Council where we could camp in the town park. Several more climbs, and several more nerve racking steep winding downhills, got us there just as dusk was setting in. We set up the tents by a pavillion, cooked some dinner, and talked for a few hours sharing stories of what we had going on before the trip and what we think we'll do afterwards. They seemed pretty set on going back to Chicago and their previous jobs, and Jed has a girlfriend there so that pretty much settles that. I'm still trying to keep an open mind and not make any plans, but I think I know what direction I may go.

Day 12 - Friday, May 22

Start - Wytheville, VA

End - Damascus, VA

Miles (on the route) - 60.0

Miles (total) - 61.15

Avg Spd - 11.5mph

Max Spd - 35mph

Total Ride Time - 5:18

The first twentysome miles out of Wytheville were great, being relatively level riding with minimal climbing; night and day from the last several days. But it wasn't long of course until the Appalachians kicked back in and it was climbing time again. This day was different though. I got an early start and was able to ride at any pace and not feel pressured to get anywhere in particular. Now I can just ride and take it all in.

Late in the afternoon I stopped at a country store at the bottom of a mountain descent and I ran into Pat and Virginia from the mallard duck campground several days previous. Inside I met some Appalachian Trail hikers and talked with them for a half hour. I was soon enlightened to all the details of the hiking lifestyle and I suddenly felt I was living the high life. Their trip was taking six months from Georgia to Maine and they have to carry at least five days of supplies at a time. I'm spoiled with coming across stores several times a day and never thought about the realities of that lifestyle. They shared stories of multiple bear encounters and even kicking wild ponies. Apparently the ponies will "kick the hell out of ya'! And they'll eat your tent, and then eat all your pot!" So I don't have to deal with that. That's good.

I climbed one more mountain and again had a long and windy descent into Damascus. These windy downhills have almost become frequent and my approach has changed drastically since the wipeout on the Vesuvius descent. I've now come to hate the descents more than the climbs, and I spend as much time going down the mountains as I do climbing them. I take frequent breaks to check the heat of my rims and let them cool from all the braking. At one point on the descent I passed through what must have been the home of the largest population of knats ever. I thought I would need a squeegee to get the bugs off my face and legs. Pretty nasty!

I rode directly to the hostel and found it busy with hikers from the AT (Appalachian Trail.) Turns out this is a huge hub with the Trans Am, AT, and the Virginia Creeper Trail and coming into Damascus. The town has a population of only 980, but has booming tourism services including six bike shops that shuttle riders into the mountains for dayrides. The previous week was Hiker's Week there and it brought in 3000 hikers! Many of the hikers hang around town for a week because it may be over a month before they find another town. The hikers all have nicknames and I was jokingly given the nickname "car dodger." I met several interesting people including one who went by the name "the Santiago Pilgrim." He was in his 50s(?), with long wavy white hair down to his shoulders, a tuft of hair on his chin that reached the collar of his worn and stained t-shirt. He sported a large brimmed leather hat like one Neil Young would likely wear, and a single seashell on a leather strand around his neck. He spoke with a strange accent that turned out to be a combination of being born and raised in New York, and then spending most of his years in Ireland. He was more than willing to dispense his philosophies and wisdoms, talking of a need for America to return to its sense of community. He talked of wanting to start a "new foundation" for America. I'm not sure if he was onto something or just spent too much time in the mountains, but he was certainly entertaining conversation.

I was able to grab a great dinner at Fatty's Diner, and almost entertained the idea of taking the 6lb burger challenge. The way I've been eating I think I could have done it. I talked to some locals and they even bought me a few beers, including a much sought after Yuengling Lager. It was good to have a few beers.

Day 11 - Thursday, May 21
Start - Radford, VA
End - Wytheville, VA
Miles (on route) - 46
Miles (total) - 54.5
Ave Spd - 11.1mph
Max Spd - 38mph
Total Ride Time - 4:45
I left the Lee's house refreshed and clean, ready to ride on my rejuvenated smooth ride. But not so fast. I left the town of Radford and immediately started to notice some odd wobble to my ride. I sometimes get some wobble in the front end at higher speeds, but I was now getting it at speeds under 10mph and it felt as if it was through the whole body of the bike. I made sure the weight balance was even through all my bags and hoped I could ride it out. After checking my bike a second time I found the spokes on the back wheel, the new wheel, had come severely loose. I was able to hitch a ride back to Radford to take it into the local bike shop. I haven't trued a wheel previously and I didn't think this was the right opportunity to learn to do it. Dave at The New Wheel bike shop was great and trued me up in no time. He was surprised to see a wheel come that loose so quickly, but assumed it was quite a shock to suddenly throw all the weight on it and run it 50 miles.
I finally got rolling around three, and again found myself racing against the sun to bike some decent miles. I was hoping this time was for real, finally riding smooth. The bike felt great, but again I was feeling frustrated riding through the constant ups and downs of the Appalachians. I've found myself not staying in the moment and turning towards a more negative attitute, hating this terrain as I struggle to beat sundown. Similarly I've been neglecting the camera in recent days. As of late, each day has been focused on making it to a destination and not all the experiences along the way. That's not what I'm out here to do.
I eventually made it into Wytheville where I was able to throw the tent down in the city park. It arrived only two days after another biker was hit by a car while leaving the town and was airlifted to a neighboring hospital. The story served to remind me of the dangers that are out there each day.

Day 10 - Wednesday, May 20
Start - Toutville, VA
End - Radford, VA
Miles (on route) - 56.5
Miles (total) - 59
Ave Spd - ?
Max Spd - 37.5mph
Total ride time - 6:05
I woke up anxious to finally get my wheel and start real riding again, so I headed off the route towards Roanoke. I arrived at the home of Sam's dad, David, around noon and we were able to sit out on his porch and chat while waiting for the wheel to arrive. It was great to be able to relax in the afternoon with company and have good conversation, talking mostly about politics. It was interesting, as with any similar opportunity, to see the likeness between Sam and her father. They are both passionate, especially politically, and have the same spontaneous unrestrained laugh. The wheel arrived shortly and David drove me to the local bike shop. While they transferred the wheel and made sure everything was in good shape, David bought me lunch nextdoor and we got to talk about the trip and more politics. Being out here solo hasn't allowed me the usual opportunities to have such conversation, so this was a treat.
With the new wheel I wanted to get out and make some ground so I set out for Radford where I could have a free stay at the home of Dr. Lee and his family. It was a late start, about 4:00, and I had almost 50 miles to go so I was trucking as hard as I could. But the mountains and hills were still constant in this territory and it was frustrating with every climb. On my travel toward Christiansburg I found the company of a bike racing team. It made me jealous to see them cruising on 15lb bikes and not carrying any weight. I've been wondering how I could handle these mountain climbs if I just dumped my 55lbs of gear.
My climb up to Christiansburg was long and laborous and I found myself at the mountaintop town at dusk. I was feeling exhausted and anxious with about ten miles to go. Every turn and hill had me hoping for a sign that I was approaching Radford. I ended up riding almost a full hour in the dark before I finally arrived at Dr. Lee's house, not something I enjoyed or intend to repeat.
Dr. Lee and his wife, Sarah, were some of the kindest people. I was told of them by the Cookie Lady and they have been taking in riders for over 16 years now. Dr. Lee once did the TransAm with his two sons in the 80s. Right away they put a heaping plate of Spaghetti in front of me gave me a pitcher of iced tea. We talked for a few hours about riding, and also much about my experiences in the mental health field and possible directions into the medical field. They had plenty of advice and information on the ideas of pursuing an education and career as a physician's assistant versus nursing/nurse practioner. It's something that has been on my mind for years and will be heavy on my mind during this trip. I think I'll be ready for action once I complete this.
The Lee's had me make myself at home, allowing me to shower, do laundry, use the internet, and even gave me a room in their home. The bed was much appreciated! A home is nice.

Day 9 - Tuesday, May 19
Start- Buena Vista, VA
End - Troutville, VA
Miles (on route) - 57.5
Miles (total) - 57.5
Ave Spd - ?
Max Spd - 35.5
Total Ride Time - 4:49
It was kind of depressing to start the day further back than you had been the previous two days, but I was looking forward to getting in a full day's ride and making my way into new territory. The guy who runs the campground decided not to charge me for staying the night because I helped him load some picnic tables into his truck, so another free night! I stopped into Lexington one last time to make arrangements for receiving the new wheel.
I was planning on visiting my friend Sam's father in Roanoke and it seemed very convenient to just have the wheel shipped there. So I called Johnny Sprockets in Chicago, where I purchased my bike, and gave them the whole story. I was doubtful any kind of warranty would cover anything, given my abuse (riding the brakes too long and overheating the wheel to the point of failure.) But much to my amazement and delight, they decided to overnight me a new wheel at NO CHARGE! This was way above and beyond anything I ever expected! They said they didn't want me worrying about anything and just wanted me to be able to enjoy the trip. Wow! My original experiences with them were great, and now this?! Can't thank them enough!
So I made arrangements with Sam's dad, David, and would be meeting him around lunchtime in Roanoke the following day, and then have the wheel put on the bike at the local shop. Finally it seems things are coming together. I can't wait to be riding smoothly and with confidence.
That day finished at Troutville where I earlier made arrangements to camp in the town park. I met up again with Ted and Lisa from Hawaii, and was able to talk with them more about their travels and background. The firehall across the street let us shower up, and I finally felt like I was back on track. Nice to be camping at a new spot with 50 miles on the day and a full day ahead of me again.

Day 8 - Monday, May 18
Start - Vesuvius (via Lexington)
End - Buena Vista
Miles (on the route) - 9
Miles (total) - 27.5
Ave Spd - 14.3mph
Max Spd - 29mph
Total Ride Time - 2:27
Took the bike into the local shop in Lexington to learn my fate, and used the library located conveniently next door while I waited. The mechanic replaced the tire and did his best to true up the wheel. I was surprised to hear that he thought it would be usable, even if only for a short time. Eventually, he expects it to start popping spokes. It's rideable but won't get me to the west coast, so I still need to get a decent wheel for the bike. He only had cheaper wheels that aren't made for touring duty so I'll have to have one shipped to me. Makes me nervous now, I'm feeling cautious about every bump and downhill. I suppose I got a little scare on that mountain.
Once the bike was finished I headed back to Vesuvius to pick up where I left off. No cheating allowed so I can't just move on from Lexington and leave 18.5 miles unaccounted for. The ride after the day off was sluggish, I guess I broke momentum. But I eventually tagged up at Gertie's in Vesuvius and made my way to the Mallard Duck campground halfway back to Lexington. There I met two other duos, one from Hawaii and the other from Huntsville AL. We shared some stories and I even had Pat from Huntsville, a very experienced biker, take a look at my cycle. He boosted my confidence in the wheel and seemed to think I shouldn't have a problem for a few days until I can get a new wheel. Tomorrow, I pick up the lost time and need to make some ground!

Day 7 - Sunday, May 17
No miles biked! Boo!
Boyd and Tammy gave me a ride into Lexington VA in the morning and I got a brief tour of some of the sites there including the Virginia Military Institute, where Robert E Lee is burried, and also the burial site of Stonewall Jackson. I got set up in a motel and spent the day in Lexington waiting for the bike shop to open up at 9am on Monday and learn my fate. It was nice to relax and watch some of the NBA playoff games, and I caught the new Star Trek movie at the local theater. Oh, and did laundry - needed that.

Day 6 - Saturday, May 16

Start - Afton, VA

End - Vesuvius, VA

Miles (on route) - 32.5

Miles (total) - 32.5

Ave Spd - 9.1mph

Max Spd - 40mph

Total Ride Time - 3:49

I started the day feeling refreshed, packing my bike outside the bike house, and watching a few bikers sweat their way up the road in Afton on their way up to the Blue Ridge Parkway. I soon joined and dove into what would certainly be a long, tiring day. On the initial climb I met two riders from just outside Chicago, Jed and Sean. They quit their jobs to do the Trans-Am without any time schedule. I enjoyed their approach, to whereever today, for however long. They weren't in any rush to get anywhere, just taking their time and enjoying the riding. I followed with them for much of the first half of the day.

The climbs were difficult in how steep they were, but the biggest challenge was the slow wear on the spirit to climb to 3200 feet, go downhill and have to immediately reascend. All day this was the pattern, constantly reclimbing mountain sides that seemed like they were already climbed. It was a test in will and focus, all you can do is put it into a low gear and just keep pedaling. Just like in running, you have to keep breaking down the challenge, focusing on just the next short obstacle. Just up to the next turn, or just a few more pedal strokes.

By late afternoon I was making my final ascent, still feeling relatively good. As I rolled off of the parkway and onto rt 56, I was filled with a sense of accomplishment. Ego kicked in, filled with pride as I had just beaten these mountains. The descent to Vesuvius was a high, winding down the steep mountainside feeling triumphant. I heard stories about this descent, dangerous with its hairpin turns and constant downhill without a level break. And it wasn't long until I found out for myself.

While going into one of the turns, my back tire exploded with the sound of a gun. I struggled to keep control as the tire came loose, sending me fishtailing left and right around the turn while trying to avoid going off the edge or into the inside ditch at a high rate of speed. Eventually I wiped out acroos the road receiving a few road burns and scrapes, but coming out without any serious injury. I found the sidewall of the tire had torn and left me without any chance or permanent repair. I put in a new tube, and much to the grimace of many a biker, used duct tape to try to hold the tire together just to make it to camp.

After getting the bike going, the tube held up for a mile or two getting me into Vesuvius and to Gertie's Country Store where I would be able to camp for the night. Boyd and Tammy were immediately helpful, allowing me to camp and use their phone to investigate the hours of the closest bike shop, 20 miles away in Lexington, and even offered to drive me there in the morning. I got settled into my tent that night as a serious thunderstorm moved in, bringing a heavy downpour and light show to cap off what was an up and down day in more ways than one. I lay there writing, unable to call anyone, and reflecting on the events of the day, initially feeling frustrated and discouraged. But those feelings were soon replaced with a confidence and appreciation of having people like Boyd and Tammy around to help out in those situations. I found myself thinking about this trip, going into it as a personal challenge; one where I alone would face and conquer each daily obstacle. And I think I started to appreciate more of what a journey like this is all about; the people you are lucky enough to know and share these times with, and the people who can help support you when you need the help.

Oh, and they have some of the best damn Pork BBQ you'll ever have.

Day 5 - Friday, May 15

Start - Charlottesville, VA

End - Afton, VA

Miles (on route) - 28.5

Miles (total) - 28.5

Ave Spd - 10.2mph

Max Spd - 30.5mph

Total Ride Time - 2:50

I planned on a short ride for the day knowing I had the Blue Ridge Mountains to follow and wanting to stay at the Cookie Lady's house. Much of the ride was through residential areas nestled into the woods, and in one community I crossed paths with some deer that seemed almost too comfortable with my presence. I traveled past several orchards at the foot of the mountains and stopped to refresh with some homemade applecider.

All along the way so far have been these convenient signs designating the way for the TransAmerica Trail, or originally the bicentennial (Bikecentennial) trail.To arrive in Afton I had to climb 1.5 miles of the most grueling uphill. All I could do was put the bike into the lowest gear possible and pump my way up the mountain side at 5mph. Every turn I hoped would show signs of the Cookie Lady's house, but instead just more climb. Finally, I was rewarded with my place to stay for the night which will most certainly be one of the most memorable moments of this trip.The Cookie Lady, June Curry, has been allowing bikers to stay in her "bike house" since the inaugural ride in 1976. She has kept the house stocked with food for the riders and done all of this for no charge for over thirty years. Room after room of the bike house has been filled with artifacts and mementos of thousands of cyclists, turning the home into a TransAM museum. Everything you can imagine lines the walls and ceilings of the house; pictures, shirts and jerseys, water bottles, frisbees, tires, shoes, poems, journals, maps, and postcards. June has even kept photo albums of every biker who has stayed with her. So many friends she has amassed over the years.

She greeted me with enthusiasm and immediately wanted to sit on her porch and chat, while the roosters and peacocks wandered through her backyard. For over an hour she told me of her recent medical complications and her increased difficulty with paying as much attention to the bike house as she would like. At 88, I think she is doing alright and definitely loves having the company of the bikers. You can tell this annual season of riding, and it's daily hopitality opportunities has really come to define her. It was nice to have an indoor shelter for the night, and I enjoyed being able to use a regular stove and get a shower (even if it was by hose.) It was a thrill to be able to sleep in that house surrounded by the artifacts of the thousands who passed through before me. I fell asleep thinking of all the stories and experiences that have come through there.

Day 4 - Thursday, May 14

Start - Mineral, VA

End - Charlottesville, VA

Miles (on route) - 51.5

Miles (total) - 54.5

Ave Spd - 12.3mph

Max Spd - 35.5mph

Total Ride Time - 4:31

Finally got an early start and was out biking by 9:30am. Most of the day was spent travelling through rural country, passing by points of interest you only find in these parts. I've seen one room school houses in Pennsylvania before, but I don't think one quite as small as the one pictured below. And I'm sure the always curious church signs will not quit as I cross the country. Much of Virginia has reminded me of Pennsylvania so far, with the hills and rural country. There are parts of Lebanon and Lancaster county where you may have to drive 15 miles just to get to your country store for groceries. I've found myself constantly wondering what it would be like to have grown up in the places I'm passing through, how much would be different. And sometimes I come to the conclusion that these places probably are not that different from some of the areas around where I've lived.

To get to Charlottesville, I had my first real climb. Even knowing that it probably did not compare to the Blue Ridge Mountains, I was still challenged by the winding mountain road that led me past Monticello and into Charlottesville. I stopped at the Monticello grounds to see Jefferson's infamous home, but quickly moved on when I saw the entrance fee; I am on a budget, and have places to go. I stopped for a picture on the way into Charlottesville with the Monticello climb behind me.

Charlottesville was different from everything else in Virginia so far. I have to be careful about my labels, but it definitely seemed like a college town with its eclectic population, left leaning culture, and art community. The city definitely stuck out in contrast to the Virginia I've experienced so far. I talked to several people about the trip at the library as well as the open air mall that was lined with restaurants and shops. I met a friendly woman who was organizing events for the bike week in Charlottesville and directed me to the Blue Moon Diner for a discounted dinner for bikers. However I soon found my first brewpub and decided to prioritize that. South Street Brewery was mediocre, but even mediocre beer was treat at this point. After a couple pints and some dinner, dusk was setting in and I needed to find camp for the night. I had been hoping to meet the right person(s) to ask about throwing down the tent, but the crowd at the brewpub was too stiff and I settled into the idea of finally paying to camp. On my way out of town I happened to pass the Blue Moon Diner, and with its twenty bikes parked outside I figured it would be a friendly environment. I hoped to find somebody sympathetic to the cause, and to my surprise I found the same woman who directed me there earlier. I was able to have a beer with Jennifer, her boyfriend Vince, their friend James, and talk about the trip/biking and get to know a bit about Charlottesville. I should mention the Blue Moon Diner was a great spot with its laid back crowd, live music and shelves of records on the walls to be played at other times. The three of them were all avid bikers and Vince allowed me to throw the tent down in the backyard, which was interesting considering the downpour that had started by then. It was great to have a beer in the company of others, and I enjoyed meeting some people that really put me at ease. I got a good feeling from Charlottesville.

Day 3 - Wednesday, May 13
Start - Ashland, VA
End - Mineral, VA
Miles (on route) - 48.5
Miles (total) - 52.5
Ave Spd - 13.2mph
Max Spd - 34mph
Total Ride Time - 4:05
Again got things rolling later than I planned. Showered at Marcos' house in the morning and chatted briefly before rolling into the town of Ashland. Found a library right away so I grabbed a reservation and had a fantastic lunch across the street while I waited for a computer to open up. Had an enjoyable brief chat with a girl who used to go to school in Indiana and frequented Chicago, and drank a bit of the Goose Island brew.
Eventually, I got to serious trucking about 11:30 and did thirty miles straight to a little country store in Bumpass where I again gorged myself on everything! I've found a crazy abundance of corn dogs here in Virginia; strange? But I did find my new favorite beverage, Cheerwine! It's almost a cross between Dr. Pepper and Cherry Coke. Simply the most delicious sugary sweetness money can buy! My first biker aquaintances rolled up on me there. They are doing the same route, just a bit faster. They started out doing about 80+ miles a day and were carrying a bit less baggage. And I'm not talking about their panniers! They seemed like a couple that would have been fun to ride with, but honestly I'm just not at their level yet. The ride on to Mineral was gorgeous, repeatedly crossing over Lake Anna and all it's boathouses. Eventually I arrived in Mineral around 5pm where I debated riding on or camping in back of the firehouse. The Adventure Cycling maps have been very helpful with planning for services ahead, and noting camping options such as the free camping at the firehall. I thought I could ride on another 20 miles but there would be no guaranteed camping, so I took the sure bet. They even let me shower up in the firehall. It was early so I decided to ride around the town and see what was going on, even though it only had a population of 424. I happened upon the county track meet at the high school and I decided to be the creepy guy walking around in spandex. Security kept a close eye on me but I got some pictures taken. If anyone was interested, Louisa High School seemed to kick the other schools' asses!

Day 2 - Tuesday, May 12

Start - Charles City, VA

End - Ashland, VA

Miles (on route) - 52.5

Miles (total) - 59.5

Ave Spd - 12.2mph

Max Spd - 31.5mph

Total Ride Time - 5:15

Started the day later than I planned, actually got rolling around 11:00. The first half of the day was still very rural territory. I passed many battlefields, historical markers, and cannons all related to civil war battles just east of Richmond. Most of the markers had were related to the various battlefields that were the setting for the seven day battle. The day slowly introduced me to some mild hills, but still no real climbs. I know the true test is only 2 days away. From what I'm told, and what I have read, the most difficult part of the entire trek begins in the Blue Ridge Mountains. No grades, and constant repeated ascents. I'll try to keep a reasonable perspective on the situation; not get anxious or frustrated.

I later got into the city of Mechanicsville, the first largely populated area I've come to so far. I found the local bike shop, Pedal Power, who set me up with some extra tubes and even threw in a pressure gauge for me. The gentleman helping me there did the same route some years ago and shared some great stories, advice, and encouragement. I've been able to talk to several people about the trip on the route. There is always someone asking "where you going?" I guess I kind of stick out in the usual crowd around here.

The day ended just east of Ashland. I met Marcos and his family while asking for directions to the local campground. They kindly let me camp in the backyard as they had done for another rider only two weeks prior. They were generous enough to also make me a sandwich and provide me with a gatorade, and even let me shower. Thank God I needed that! It was also nice to have the company for a short time, talking with their kids while I set up my tent and gear. I can only hope my luck continues and I find more people as kind as them.

Day 1 - Monday, May 11
Miles - 41.5

I started out my first day with very little sleep, too much on my mind the night before. The three hours I slep during the drive down to Yorktown were just not enough. After a brief lunch with Dad, and about an hour setup of the bike and all the gear and a few photos, I finally got the ride started around noon. Rainy for most of the day, I was just focused on getting used to following the maps and getting a feel for the extra weight on the bike. Gear weighed in at 52lbs, much less than I thought I was going to be trying to bring. But you do feel every pound of it, and I haven't even gotten to the real climbs. First day was relatively smooth, no major hills to climb, no problems. And not much in the way of people, pretty rural country. The route took me through a very wet Colonial Williamsburg where I had my picture taken with some colonial fancy lad and immediately moved on. Around dinner time, I met a lady, Theresa, who kindly guided me to a country store in Charles City (they use the term "city" pretty loosely) where the owner let me camp in the back by the pond. Already nice folks helping out. Camping was great by the pond, many new sounds at night. Sounds a bit different from Chicago, or Philly.

Found myself with mixed emotions: proud of myself and enjoying the moment, but also missing people. People to share it with. Woke up at 6:30 to the sounds of the local rooster. That was new!

So it's my last night before the start of this thing. I was pleasantly surprised when my father offered to drive me down to Yorktown VA for the start, especially considering he is not fully on board with my plans. I thought I would start from the Jersey shore, maybe Atlantic City, but this is preferable for multiple reasons. Mostly, I will enjoy being able to spend those last few hours with him despite the obvious tension at hand. I'm just anxious at this point to get it started!
The last few weeks have been great. I've spent much time with friends, many of those late nights. It was difficult to leave Chicago, much more than I would have thought just a year ago. I'm not sure if it's coincidence or one follows the other, but I felt I was finally starting to really settle in over the last several months there.
Coming back Lebanon/Lancaster has always been a pleasure. Lancaster is still a place I can see myself moving back to someday. But not yet. On Friday I was able ride from Lebanon to Lancaster and catch up with friends at some of my favorite spots, the Lancaster Brewing Company and Quip's. It was my first ride with a loaded bike (40lbs?) and the hills of PA. Lancaster is beautiful country. Saturday I rode around town, reminiscing, and visited the market where I met several people wanting to ask questions about what I was doing. I even met a fellow biker on a two day race from Pittsburg to Philadelphia. There is an immediate social opportunity that comes with just being on the loaded bike. I finish my pack in the morning and get the final weights of my gear. I'll look to post that soon along with my initial experiences. I guess I'm actually going to do this.

I'm new to this blogging so please bear with me. I've done plenty of writing in the past but it was always strictly for me; this will be a new experience. And new experiences are plentiful these days. I begin this cross country bicycle trip tomorrow morning, and I currently find myself homeless, jobless, and without most traditional securities for the next three months. Traveling has always been a passion. Road trips by car have been common and I've even driven cross country in the past, but this adventure will certainly prove to be something new. I'm anxious to watch the terrain change at a slower pace, and interact with it one mile at a time.

I've been asked numerous times, "Why are you doing this?" I suppose the short answer is to get to Portland, OR for best friend Mary's wedding on August 8th, but that would be a bit incomplete. The notion to do something like this came to me almost a year ago. Various major elements of life had been changing every six months for several years; there was always a twist or turn in the road. But I soon found myself feeling stagnant, unfiulfilled, and without strong ties or direction that had me headed anywhere in particular. It was time to shake things up a bit.
This isn't the first time I've been in this position. Four years ago I felt a similar urge and up and moved to Philadelphia, leaving behind my more rural upringing and what is still the best job I've ever had at Philhaven Hospital. But I needed change, and things have turned out for the better since then besides numerous challenges and difficulties. I've had numerous ideas for what I may do after this trip, but I'm maintaing a focus on each individual day of this journey and keeping an open mind for new ideas that may spring forth. I've never been one too focused on tomorrow, just today. One day at a time.
So this trip has already been a challenge, before I even take my first pedal strokes from the beach at Yorktown, VA. Part of the appeal of this adventure was the personal challenge I would be setting before me. I'm not sure I've ever taken on a formidable task and finished it feeling like I had achieved TRUE success, feeling like I gave it my all and carrying a genuine sense of pride. I coasted through college and got breaks on the roads to various achievements. There are accomplishments in my past, but nothing I've done as a purely individual effort. And now I feel I've already changed this. I've planned this trip, made sacrifices, worked, budgeted, and trained. And I look forward to continuing the focus.
It would, however, be false to not credit many for their support. As much as I view this trip as a personal challenge I wonuldn't be leaving tomorrow without the assistance of many. Johnny Sprockets helped me with my bike purchase, accesories, and generally educated a relatively amateur biker without even a hint of condescending attitude. They shared an enthusiasm for my trip that helped replace fear and nervousness with excitement and confidence. I'd also like to thank the guys from Erehwon Mountain Outfitter for their enthusiasm and guidance with assembling the necessary camping equipment. It's been great to get to know people better who share similar passions. I also have to mention all my friends at Goose Island Brewery who have showed interest in the trip, and placed heavy wagers against my ability to bike through even one state. Thanks for the laughs guys. But despite their doubts, they were so generous as to give me a shiny new ipod for the trip. Great gift, you know me well! So many friends and family have assisted in different ways, often with the support and interest that will prove invaluable on this journey. I've left many before, be it Lebanon, Lancaster, Philly, or now Chicago, but now I'm leaving EVERYone for a while and it only serves to heighten the appreciation of the ones I love. I can't say thanks enough for people just being friends, and I hope to continue to hear from all of you on this trip. I won't be able to do it without you!

Keep watching and I'll see you soon!